WCR 1107

This one is going to be looooooooooooooooooooooonnnnnngggggg.

WCR

The above three letters have haunted us for many years. The idea of travelling along the Western Coastline of India had captured us for many years. Many plans were laid, but never finalized. Sometimes, it was lack of riders, sometimes lack of funds, sometimes, lack of time and sometimes all the three together.

After Ladakh in 2008 and Spiti in 2009, the next plan was to cover either Zanskar or WCR. So, the itch was born way back in 2009. But as Life’s unpredictable events took place, things got shaken up in the next few years. After the dust had somewhat settled down in early 2014, the idea was again floated to conquer WCR in September. This time we were determined. Excitement spread all around. As lazy bones would have it, riders were lethargic saying it was too early to commit. This attitude had been seen many times earlier too. The resistant to commit soon turns more rigid as time approaches. Then soon, it turns to denial. That is why Nilu, Gyan and I were very pushy.

All efforts were in vain when Gyan announced that he was going to be transferred to Barauni in mid-2014. All the plans came crashing down. With the others still in non-commitment mode, that left only Nilu and I confirmed for the Ride. In the beginning, we were still determined to continue. But as the dates drew closer, the Ride didn’t look that much fun with just two participants. So the invite was forwarded in the BoP mail chain in September. The Ride dates were now pushed to November. We were still skeptic about more riders joining in, but BoP has a habit of throwing surprises. Three Riders confirmed for the Ride. Rohit, Ashok and Zaheer. On top of that our Bangalore chapter confirmed to join us for the Kerala leg.

This was the first time that the North and South chapters of BoP will be riding together. So it added a new level of excitement. Now the time started for vigorous action on the logistics. We were to start from Pune. So first, the riders from Delhi had to find a way to transport their Bullets to Mumbai/Pune. My flatmate, Rizu came to the rescue. He works in Honda and arranged for the Bullets to be transported in a CBR truck. This was a big time and money saving for us as transporters were charging between 3000 – 5000. Transport in the Rajdhani as luggage will also cost close to 3000.

A week before we were to depart, Riders from NCR gathered and went to Dharuhera to load the Bullets. The “Ride” feeling started to sink in that time only. This further aggravated our itch making it more difficult for the time to pass on the remaining days.

7^th Nov 2014: Delhi:

The day of departure had arrived. Time had passed anxiously as the location of our Bullets was hazy. Rohit and I met at New Delhi railway station to catch the Rajdhani to Mumbai. On top of our heavy luggage we were carrying a bag belonging to Ashok also as he and Zaheer could carry limited luggage on their flight the next day. The journey was ON.

Train journeys have a charm of their own. Flights arrive too quickly to give one a feeling of travel. Train journeys ensure that one feels the distance one has traversed. Since Rohit and I had our seats in adjoining coaches, time passed easily in commuting to each others’ seats. We also utilized the time to do some research on our travel. I was carrying the book of “Highway on my Plate”. Rohit noted down the recommended places.

A surprise to hit us was that Rohit was no longer a tea-fan. Instead he was carrying a mini coffee brewer with himself. This item would attract many eyes in days to come.

WCR 1108

8^th Nov 2014: Delhi to Mumbai:

We reached Mumbai at 8:30 AM. On the way from Borivali to Mumbai Central I was hit by many waves of nostalgia crossing the same tracks yet again after 9 years. Rohit and I thought of taking a taxi to CST and then take the local from there to Panvel. We had to reach Kalamboli. But outside the station, Rohit negotiated a deal with the driver to take in one more passenger to Navi Mumbai. This way we wouldn’t have to load and unload the luggage so often. Little did we know that this wasn’t going to happen.

Enroute I called up the Mumbai contact of the Fleet Carrier only to be told that our Bullets were not at Kalamboli. Instead they were stored at a warehouse in Uran. By now we had reached Kharghar where we dropped off the extra passenger. Uran was a good distance away from here. We had a lot of planning to do. Meanwhile our other two Riders, Zaheer and Ashok had landed at Mumbai and they were on a cab directly to Uran from the airport.

To sharpen our thinking, first we stopped to have Mumbai’s cutting tea with wada pav. Our driver discussed with another person on possibilities to reach Uran. He also told us the option of taking a ferry back from Mazgaon docks near the Central station. Although the idea was very attractive but having come so far, we were not interested in returning all the way back.  So we took the cab till Belapur crossing from where we could catch a bus to Uran. Loading our extensive luggage inside loaded buses was taking a heavy toll. But we were finally seated. Meanwhile, our co-riders had reached the spot and were in possession of the motorcycle.

The bus dropped us off at the landmark spot that was provided to us. But on enquiring further we found that this wasn’t the correct landmark. Another place with the same title, Hotel Timepass, was 10 kms further from here in another direction. We negotiated with an auto for the last stretch. The auto driver was the first genuine person we met on this journey. He dropped us at the correct location and the fare charged was very appropriate. We thanked him heartily.

Finally, all of us were united. The Bullets were in perfect condition, exactly as we had dropped them. When 4 BoPians meet, there’s bound to be some bakchodi. Ashok narrated how Zaheer left his wallet full of cash lying unattended on his seat because he was distracted by a passenger. Zaheer narrated how Ashok had eaten away his breakfast. This Ride will have lots of such great moments.

Zaheer fixed up the Ladakh carrier on my motorcycle. We took the Bullets down from the stairs, confirmed the receipt of delivery with our Gurgaon contact and started to Ride. Finally, the West Coast Ride had begun.

The time was nearly 2 pm and we had to cover 150 kms to Pune today. The four of us stuck together in a single file all the way. It is always a great feeling to ride your own Bullet in a new state. It gives an extended feeling of exploration. We were making good progress along the old Mumbai-Pune highway. Rohit stopped to buy some famous Lonavla chikki. A short distance later we stopped to have our lunch too.

Chicken curry was ordered along with veg for Zaheer. These vegetarians always spoil the expenditure calculation at the end of the ride. We were 60 kms from Pune. So we took our time in finishing our lunch. By sunset, we had reached the outskirts of Pune. Of course now the outskirts of Pune are quite wide.

Our navigation benefitted us again. We had entered the city even when we were told by Nilu that he would be meeting us at the point where the highway and expressway coincide. But no surprises there as our navigation skills help us on familiar roads too. Nilu caught up with us on his KTM in front of Alfa Laval factory and escorted us to his place. I remembered Pune as a laidback town. There’s no trace of that now. It’s a hustling and bustling city now, and not very friendly.

The time was ripe for the evening BBB. Another comrade, Ajit joined us a while later. I was meeting two more of my old friends, Amardeep and Satish after a very long time. The evening had brightened. We were drinking in moderation as we had to leave early the next day and a long distance, 465 kms to traverse. But when old friends unite, moderation goes out of the door. Rohit and Zaheer indulged in their self-made coffee.

Finally our goal for next day was heavy enough to make us say good night. Actually, even bottles were empty now, so we had to stop. Amardeep promised to ride with us for a short distance the next day. 

WCR 1109

9^th Nov 2014: Pune to Goa:

All of us were ready to go by 4:45 AM. Then Gyan took some time to find Nilu’s place and we were ready to leave by 5:45 AM. Amardeep was also awake and ready. He had to attend a full day training today starting 9 AM having slept for only 3 hours. Still he provided us with company for some distance before saying goodbye.

The whole bunch was together now. Things didn’t go smoothly. Zaheer’s Bullet started to lock its front tyre. This went on for a long time. He tried some basic fixing but it didn’t work. So he just carried on riding it in the same condition. We covered a good distance in the cold, early morning. The first pit stop was taken at Satara after covering 120 kms.

We didn’t dare order parathas during this trip. They are suitable only in the North. Our diet would be entirely new here. Upma and dosas were ordered. I, however ordered missal-pav. When in Maratha Land, eat like Marathas. I’m sure there are more dishes to be had, but ordered the one I knew. Nilu aptly described it as just a chakhna served with pav. Over breakfast began another session where Zaheer and Ashok pulled each other’s legs, much to everyone’s laughter.

Meanwhile, the bikes were attracting their share of looks, specially Nilu’s KTM. Gyan and I caught one onlooker asking if it was Yamaha, much to Nilu’s annoyance and our entertainment. The label of “Chinese Yamaha” was now stuck on his KTM. There were few more enquiries in the group from the public but we didn’t pay much attention to them. In retrospect, I think we should answer the curious questions. We are representing the Riding community to people and by not responding we do give an arrogant image.

The farther we moved from Pune, the better were the highways. Nearing Kolhapur, they turned excellent. Caught in that excellence, Zaheer disappeared. He was in the lead for the first time and since he had forgotten to bring his rearview mirrors, there was no looking back. While the rest of us fuelled up, we tried to reach him. After much effort, a connection was established and he was told to wait at Nipani, 14 kms ahead. Meanwhile, the rest of us hydrated ourselves on oranges bought by Rohit.

Some more distance ahead we reached a quizzical point. The six lane highway continued to Belgaum. A second single road would take us to Sawantwadi. The former was 80 kms longer but quicker. Looking at the time and also considering that we would need to stop for lunch soon, we opted for the Sawantwadi route. Moreover, Riders usually prefer state highways to NHs.

We sure were glad we took that turn. The road snaked through beautiful countryside. Little traffic was found on this road. We had only 110 kms more to cover. A stop was taken at roadside theka. KnockOut beer was on offer. It’s a pity this brand is not served in the North. Snacks were consumed in the form of Gobi Manchurian. We had earlier planned to taste the famous Kolhapuri mutton. But that would’ve required us to venture into the city. Fortunately, the theka offered that dish for lunch. 

Maybe it was the Riding effect, but the dish tasted wonderful. The underlying spice without too much chili tasted our beer-laden buds just fine. We were now refreshed to continue our journey.

The remaining kilometers were covered quickly on the smooth road and we reached Calangute just after sunset. Goa was in its usual swing. The pre-booked furnished apartments were excellent. We had covered a long distance today, but we were not that tired. Order of Kings beer was immediately placed. Quickly after refreshing ourselves we stepped out to go to Calangute beach. Man, it was crowded. We found a spot near the sea and cheered. Some of us were seeing the sea for the first time. I envy their feeling.

We were then caught by a patrolling cop to pick up our beers and go home. Drinking wasn’t allowed at the beach because many leave broken bottles around. It sounded typical of Punjabis and Delhi-ites. We obliged and went away. For dinner, we stopped at a roadside restaurant. Meat dishes of all kinds were ordered except for the vegetarian. I tried the local preparation fish vindaloo. It was damn spicy. The gravy was made in chili. I could finish it only with the help of some beer. But even more stinging was the price of Pomfret. They were being sold at Rs 600. We decided to skip it and have it in some other state instead.

The next day would be a leisurely cruise around Goa, only this time it wouldn’t be on rental bikes.

WCR 1110

10^th Nov 2014: Goa:

Waking up was at ease, except for Ashok and Zaheer who woke up at 6 am and went for a morning walk to the beachside. They must’ve got an empty beach to themselves at that hour. When everybody had gathered for the complimentary breakfast, Ashok brought his old Goa map purchased from his previous visit years ago. We shortlisted the places to visit today taking care not to exert ourselves.

But first came the time to have a dip in the hotel’s swimming pool. The “water babies” were very excited. There were two pools at the hotel, one besides the main restaurant and the other in a secluded corner between the apartments. We opted for the latter preferring privacy and not to expose our glamorous bodies to the public. The life guard was very strict though. He didn’t allow anyone to enter the pool without proper costume. This left me and Zaheer disappointed and we vowed to have our revenge. We managed to sneak in for a dip though.

First on the list was Fort Aguada. The movie Dil Chahta Hai has made this place a must-visit even for repeated travelers. Lots of photos were clicked along with the usual promise to visit Goa every year. 

Next on the list was Sinquerim beach. We hadn’t visited this beach earlier. But the place was close by and the name sounded exotic.

Adventure sports were on offer here. Now began the long process of negotiations. Finally, four of us, Rohit, Ashok, Zaheer and me got ready for parasailing. It was thoroughly enjoyable. 

Nilu and Gyan meanwhile enjoyed body massage. We were then misled for the Banana boat ride. Our agent had agreed to take six of us for the ride and all of us got ready for it. But the organizers at the desk plainly refused. Playing the tune of unity, all of us refused rather than let one person be the sacrifice. The next hour passed lazily. Some of us went for a dip in the sea while some lazed around in one of the shacks.

We had to plan our budget carefully now. Expenditures had to be curtailed for the long travel ahead. Looking at the prices of food in the shack, we just opted for snacks and decided to have lunch somewhere else on the way to the rooms. We reached a small restaurant where basic fish curry and rice were on offer for Rs 90 a plate. The adventure sports had left us hungry and more plates were ordered. 

Zaheer and I shopped around for swimming trunks and immediately went for a dip in the pool as soon as we reached back to the hotel. Much to our annoyance the life guard was absent. We had to bury our vengeance.

The evening plan was to shop for ingredients for homemade food. Nilu had volunteered to cook dinner for all of us. Maybe it was the marriage effect. We went out to buy prawns, chicken and spices. While the masterchefs were busy in the kitchen, the others just strolled around and collected material for the evening’s BBB.

The beer-battered prawns came out brilliantly. For the non-alcoholics, a separate chicken dish was prepared. I was surprised by Nilu making so much effort on his vacation, but then why complain when you have great food and a bottle of beer in your hand.

We needed to leave early the next day so that we could cover the distance to Mangalore and also visit sights along the way. But things wouldn’t happen that way as Gyan, Ashok and I had to rush out to get more beer before the wine shops closed.

The next day would be exciting as Nilu, Gyan and I would be revisiting our Undergraduate College after more than 10 years.

WCR 1111

11^th Nov 2014: Goa to Surathkal:

Breakfast was served around 7 am and we were ready before that time. The first task now was fuelling up. The price of fuel in Goa is too tempting. It was around Rs 20 cheaper than Maharashtra. All loaded up, we took the highway towards Karnataka, our third state on this tour. Having left later than usual meant that we would have to negotiate with increased traffic. But it didn’t turn out to be that bad. The cooling sea breeze was a blessing as we rode.

We had expected to ride besides the sea on this tour, but the highway was always some distance away. It must be due to safety also else roads would be wiped out frequently. The road surface continued to be excellent. Before leaving Goa, Nilu ensured that he filled up the spent 2 litres in his KTM with cheap petrol.

We entered Karnataka and then Karwar. I noticed the coast a small distance away and saw a path leading there. We had been looking for such a place all along where we could ride our motorcycles besides the sea. This path provided us access to the sea. But first the heavy machines had to be dragged through the soft sand of the beach. Slithering and sliding, we inched forward and reached the coast. The sight of six motorcycles parked in a line gathered a crowd. We were asked a frequent question if we had come from Delhi after noticing the license plates. We happily agreed. What we edited out that we hadn’t rode all the way from Delhi and left it at that. The Technical Truth.

While leaving Karwar, we noticed a large group of superbikes exiting out of a side road. Maybe they were just Mumbai-kars exploring wide open roads of Karnataka after covering Goa. The roads in Karnataka are actually that good. Even though the highway is without divider, the road is broad and traffic is thin.

Another 100 kms of excellent roads brought us to Gokarna. We wanted to cover Om beach here. After crossing the city and also after having a short, pleasant conversation with a  policeman, we reached the beach. But it turned out that this wasn’t Om beach, it was Gokarna beach. 

We made our way back and then took the correct turn to Om beach. By now the weather was hot and seeing the 100 steps leading down to the beach, only Zaheer, Ashok and I were prepared to head down.

It was a very clean looking beach. There were lots of foreign tourists but without the huge domestic crowd. In some ways, they must be finding this location better than Goa. We also noticed the large Omkara shape. 

Without spending too much time here, we started to make our way back. We stopped at a nice looking resort for lunch. By now, I had had too much of fish. So while the rest ordered fish thali, I preferred chicken. We did order Pomfrets as side dish here, now available for a measly Rs 200. Another familiar sight was Ideal ice cream. How we missed those triple sundaes.

It was getting difficult to ride now with a loaded stomach. Mangalore was still 200 kms away. We covered half of this distance quickly so that we could catch the sunset at Maravanthe beach. This road is unique with the Arabian Sea on one side and a river on the other. The two are separated by only a highway. This was one of the very few stretches when we were riding besides the sea.

When in Karnataka, drink coconut water. This was just the beginning. However, we were left wondering at the thought why the price was still same as what we pay in the North. The question is lingering to this day.

With daylight gone, progress slowed. Moreover, we were now reaching the dreaded Kundapur – Mangalore stretch. The Express bus drivers are very notorious here. On double laned highways, we had to come to a crawl. Thankfully, some stretches were four-laned. But in the darkness it was getting difficult to spot the diversion markings.

The road between Udupi and Mangalore was entirely four-laned. We made good pace here. The Bullets were sticking together. Then Ashok also raced ahead. The remaining 3 of us stuck together. We avoided a wrong turn near Udupi. I stopped to take a pic of the famous Bittu dhaba and then went non-stop till we reached the Maharaja Hotel in Surathkal. I was surprised to find no one else there. It was then that I read the messages. Nilu and Gyan had stopped at Bittu dhaba after getting lost inside Udupi. They must have taken the wrong turn that we avoided there. I called up Ashok and he had almost reached Mangalore. I sent him Google location of the hotel and he returned shortly after Nilu and Gyan.

Surathkal. Four years of my graduation were spent in this town. The flyovers of today were missing then. What remained was Hotel Sadanand, one of the best places to have beer. Nostalgia overwhelmed Gyan, Nilu and me. It was heavy enough for Gyan and me to make way for Sads immediately without even having a bath. Nilu, as usual opted to come after a shower. Ashok joined us. After more than 11 years, we were seated at the same place. We were kids then. Well, we aren’t much grown up now also, just grown older. The settings also hadn’t changed, much to our delight.

Beer and Banguda were immediately ordered. Even the green salad accompanying the beer hadn’t changed. Same dear old Sads. This place was frequented day and night across the year. The 2 kms back to college were covered in various modes. Sometimes by bus, sometimes by bike, sometimes running, walking, or even crawling.  Gyan and I recognized one of the waiters of yesteryears.

Our co-riders joined us by the time we had finished a beer a piece. With Nilu present, Banguda flowed in endlessly. Even Zaheer was relishing the taste of it now. So it must be the taste all this time and not just the student effect. We didn’t have much money back in the day. We didn’t have much now also, but certainly much more than that time. At least we didn’t have to dig into old clothes to find bits of change now. Eating and drinking flowed along.

Then one of the waiters, not the one we had recognized, came to the table and asked Gyan if he was a KRECian. It was heartening to see that they recognized one of us too. The waiter went back and returned with another one who also recognized Gyan. The feeling at that time can’t be put into words. Ashok did point out that Gyan must have been the naughtiest amongst the three of us. Well, he still is. We asked if the place is frequented that often now. The answer was sadly, no. A new hotel, Surya closer to the college was the regular haunt now.

When the time for last order came, we decided to carry along some to the beach. Unfortunately, they had run out of banguda. We bade goodbye to the Swamis and headed for the college beach, the only college to have its own private beach. Beat that Harvards. The access to the beach had also changed. We rode slowly besides the highway to find the path.

When we reached the beach, it was deserted. It was a sad sight in the way that during our times, students could be found here at any time. It was later that we learnt that the college gates undergo lockdown at 10 pm. Students could no longer keep motorcycles too. So much of freedom lost. We still had tons of freedom and we made full use of it. The beach was all to ourselves now. The soothing sound of the sea enchanted us.

With passing time we also noticed the sea level rising. It was time to head back to our rooms now. I got into the mood to try the KTM now. I was very surprised to see Nilu offer it without a hitch. So much of misplaced trust on a drunk. But that also made me more cautious than normal. The extra caution also made me forget the feel of riding that KTM. Since we were on service roads, I couldn’t gun the engine to my liking. I also don’t remember when Gyan fell from his bike that night but it completed a good omen for the Ride. Gyan always falls. 

WCR 1112

12^th Nov 2014: Surathkal and Mangalore:

We woke up lazily after the late night. The weather was very humid. Today, us ex-KREC-ians planned to venture in the college campus again. I was also wearing my old College Tee. We left earlier than the others. We also didn’t want to bore our co-riders. We couldn’t travel inside the campus on our motorcycles. So we had to park them near the entry gate and traverse on foot.

We were exploring our history now. We started with the main block and made straight for Samudra Darshan canteen. We were eager to taste egg-puff but it wasn’t found here. Due to new paintwork, the buildings looked new, but were still very familiar. There was a lot of construction going on too. Gyan was again recognized by a registrar.

Familiar spots were revisited with glee – SAC, Tennis and Basketball courts, swimming pool, Down Co-op, cricket grounds, etc. 


We were having the elusive egg-puff at Down Co-op when our co-riders joined us. We took them to the Main Canteen. College canteens offer good food at unbeatable prices. While visiting the Sports Hall, another familiar face appeared – Paku. This guy is one of the sportiest guys. He immediately recognized Gyan, both having played football together. The hilarious comment came from Paku – “Thoda bada ho gaya” indicating Gyan had grown fatter. This statement would stick with us for the rest of the Ride.

Then came the depressing news. Our most coveted Night Canteen was no more. It had been the haunt for so many late nights. There was a flat ground in its place. For the last leg of our historical re-visit, we went into the first block hostel. The in-charge, Shetty also immediately recognized us. He greeted us with warmth. Being lunch time, he was busy but warmly invited us to have lunch. We just had breakfast so weren’t hungry. But the invitation was too kind to refuse. We took one plate to share. Rohit had other ideas. He took up another plate and began to help himself to a full meal.

The look on the first year students was priceless. They must be wondering who these people are that are receiving VIP treatment from Shetty. The anxiety was clear on their faces just like freshly ragged first year students have. To add to that here were some super-seniors seated right at their table. Poor guys must be dreading getting ragged inside their safe haven. Nilu added to the tension by standing directly behind a student having lunch. The effect was that he finished his food quickly, got up and left. I’m sure we would’ve done the same if we were in his place.

We said goodbye to Shetty and made for Nescafe. As we made towards Final Block, the confidence on students’ faces was clear. Final year students walk with a different air. We relived the past by sitting on the stairs of Fifth Block. This place used to be the hallmark of Bakchodis. To our co-riders we must be appearing as idiots with a lost look on our faces taking delight in seeing small, worthless things. To us, these were priceless sights.

We had planned to cover Mangalore in the evening. We had some time on our hands. So we made for Muka beach. Nilu brought us to a wonderful, isolated spot he had seen here some days earlier on a site visit. We just relaxed here for a long time. How many times in our daily life do we just sit down to relax. All stuck in the rat race. On the way we noticed Sharath Bar too, another regular haunt.

We returned to our rooms tired from the humidity. There was enough time to take a nap and then we left for Mangalore in the evening. The 20 kms to Mangalore had surely become more occupied than earlier but still it wasn’t chaotic. We still remembered the turn to be taken inside the city. Then we noticed the changes. High rises were coming up everywhere. But the good part was they had great architecture too. That showed planning. Some of the roads had been converted to one way so we had to consult with passers by to guide us on the correct path, which they very eagerly did.

The city was still as neat as before. We asked at Hotel Maharaja if their famous Crab Ghee Roast was ready. It wasn’t. We had two hours to kill. As Nilu went to KTM service station, we went to Ideal ice cream parlor at Hampankatta. The Skei parlor had closed down. The ice cream here was still as special as earlier. They had a new dish by the name of Tiramisu, Chocolate sin.

All of us then met at Hotel Maharaja at 6:30 pm. When the Crab was served it looked delectable, and tasted like that too. It was a first time for many of us, so we struggled to eat it. The cook had also cooked it enough to soften the shell more than usual. So it was easier to eat. Our hands turned bloody from the red gravy. Our stomachs were full but still we hadn’t had enough of it. It was only the longing to taste Hao Ming that we didn’t order more.

We walked around a bit more to digest the crab. Having described the notoriety of the bus drivers of this region to our co-riders, we took them for a joyride to Surathkal and back. This was all done in a matter of 45 mins. A hilarious incident that occurred on the way back was when one of the passengers tried to speak to Gyan and he didn’t respond. The passenger was drunk. He then turned to Rohit sitting ahead of him and asked, “Where are you taking this Chinese?” Gyan then replied to him in Hindi. The look on his face was priceless. He had been making effort to converse with him in English and Hindi both. The shock was so much that he even missed his bus stop.

On reaching Hao Ming, the usual Hao Ming special rice dish was ordered and it tasted just like it had years ago. The bunch of universities around the city ensure that prices are never too steep. By now the crab in our stomachs showed its power and many were unable to finish the entire plate. 

For dessert we went to Pabba’s near Saibeen complex. Our flashback tour was over now. 

WCR 1113

13^th Nov 2014: Mangalore to Wayanad:

We left early in the morning. Today we would be entering Kerala where we would be spending the next four days of our tour. The road was not in great condition. It turned worse when we entered Kerala. This wasn’t the sort of welcome we were expecting. The traffic was even worse. All sorts of vehicles were plying on the narrow stretch of highway. Buses coming in opposite directions nearly scraped each other. The drivers were always eager to overtake so every vehicle was always travelling in the middle of the road.

We thought conditions would improve later on and then turned towards Bekal Fort at Kasargod. The road to the Fort was broken and wet. We were still optimistic and showed patience. Soon we pulled into the empty parking lot. The Fort was very well maintained. The real sight was on the other end of the entry gate. It overlooked the sea and a wonderful beach. We spent a good time clicking photos here.

On exiting, we asked for directions to Wayanad. Surprisingly, we faced a language barrier. Kerala is a very hot tourist destination with high literacy. We were taken aback to find this barrier here. Thankfully, we didn’t need to go back the route we came to reach the highway. The road onwards also connected to it, although the names of the towns in between were very difficult to remember and pronounce.

Moving on the main highway, Zaheer was again in the lead. He was stopped at a police check post while the rest of us cleanly passed through. We also stopped a short distance ahead. The language barrier showed itself again. It resulted in heating up the conversation. Only one of the officers was speaking broken Hindi. It resulted in some confusion on showing the registrations. The cops were grabbing at the tiger on the front mudguard(extra fitting) and parking lights(extra light). They relented on these two but then stuck on the absence of rearview mirrors. When the rest of the riders reached the group, they were convinced that we were part of a single group and were genuine tourers. Finally after checking all papers, they let him go warning him to get mirrors installed before the next town.

The “next town” was a misnomer. There isn’t such a thing in Kerala. We had now covered 100 kms and were continuously surrounded by civilization. The “town” seemed to be never ending. There wasn’t an empty patch to be seen. Ignoring everything else, we came across our first Toddy shop in the state and immediately stopped. Only Ashok, Gyan and I were interested while the rest took their breakfast in the neighboring shop.

Unsure of the quantity, we ordered only half a litre between the three of us. It is said to make one very tipsy if it ages. Fried spicy fish was offered as snacks. The tipsy effect was displayed by a local there. He was very interested in talking to us. He straightaway came and handed a big wad of money in Ashok’s hands. He then started to narrate his family problems. He downed three glasses one after the other in quick succession and then said goodbye to us.

We found the taste of toddy very appealing and decided to have a lot more in the night. For now, we were struggling to find the road to Wayanad. Everyone we asked had a different route to suggest and understanding that route was very difficult. Moreover, the continuous running town had way too many turns and traffic. It was difficult to stick together. The signboards were showing a different direction than the one suggested by the locals. Wayanad isn’t the name of a town. Its actually a district. What we should have asked instead was Pulpally. All of us finally joined together after Kannur on the way to Kuthupuramba.

The traffic was still heavy but thankfully lighter than the main highway. News had reached us from BoP Bangalore chapter that they were just 100 kms from Pulpally at noon. They had encountered rain on the way. We had been lucky till now. But as we crossed Kuthupuramba, it started to pour. Rain suits were brought out. We stopped for lunch after some time and it was still raining. Gyan and I immediately headed to the nearby toddy shop. Lo and behold, for snacks they served pork. We should have called Nilu right then and there but the thought didn’t cross our mind. Again we purchased only half a litre. We were increasing our intake incrementally.

When we reached back and told this to Nilu, he was agitated. He immediately ran to the shop in the rain to have pork. Unfortunately, Gyan and I had finished the last lot. Nilu was furious. His face was that of a child deprived of promised chocolate. This could bite back at us viciously.

We set off again as the rain lightened. Now, we were seeing countryside. But what tensed us was that none of signboards were showing Pulpally. Majority were pointing to Sultan Bathery. After much navigating, we finally saw the signboards. We had made it to Pulpally right before dark. Now began another exercise of finding Holidays Inn Wayanad guided by directions of Ms Malini. A nearby spokesperson of CPI(M) distracted us. He was speaking with vigor. Unfortunately, not many of the passersby were interested in what was being said. Throughout our journey in Kerala we had seen the red flags of CPI(M) besides the road. The students’ association even added a Che Guevara pic to their signposts. Such is the influence of Che in a country he never visited.

We made it to Hotel Wayanad Inn and dumped our luggage. Now began the daily exercise of cleaning up and going out to pick up supplies. Our journey of 250 kms today had left us exhausted. It had still taken us 12 hours to cover the distance. We were not expecting journeys to be so long. We went to the Toddy shop in town and brought in 6 litres of toddy along with pork for snacks.

While Gyan and I fetched the drinks, BoP Bangalore had reached the hotel as well. The North and South chapters of our club were meeting for the first time. We met like brothers separated in Kumbh Mela. This was the first time the two chapters would be riding together. What made the Ride even more special was the Anniversary month, November. This was a grand celebration.

Now we had to pour the toddy from the packed polythenes into the water jugs. One of the three bags had leaked and we were being extra careful in pouring out the contents. All went to the floor as one other bag came crashing down on the floor, due to my misplacement. A litre of toddy spilled on the floor. We would have to make do with the leftover.

All of us gathered at the dining table and cheered for the occasion of Anniversary. 

We all laughed at the narration of BoP Bangalore’s misnavigation to reach Wayanad. The laughter didn’t stop after that. There was plenty of toddy and time in our hands. Even though a litre was spilled there was enough to go around. We could manage to finish only 4 litres. One litre was still left. After some time, Rohit and Zaheer went out into the town to fetch dinner. The hotel didn’t have a kitchen. They returned with ample quantities of chicken biryani, chilli chicken, rice and some veg, along with sweet dish. The toddy had made our heads heavy and we didn’t eat much food. Tomorrow would be a day to explore. 

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14^th Nov 2014: Wayanad

During our research, we had seen many places to explore in Wayanad. We targeted to cover three of them today. First on the list was Kuruva river island. We stopped at a small dhaba enroute for breakfast.

The language barrier flared up again. But thanks to Rohit’s excellent sign language, we got bread omelets and “kadak” chai.  He was also active in bringing many snacks until the breakfast came. The owner must have been happy to see his age-old items getting consumed. We all joked on how he would bring out an old carton soon, which he shortly did. We would devour anything.

Lunch was expected to be much delayed today so we ate to our full. After parking our motorcycles (special mention that Nilu was riding as pillion) and purchasing the tickets, a bamboo raft took us to the island. We expected to see something unique here. A path led through the circumference of the island. There was a large group already there and we stayed behind for a while to let the noise pass first. Meanwhile the photographers turned into rapid fire mode. Muzzles of their cameras were pointed at leaves and their veins. The funny angles began to show. They also obliged us by clicking the group from time to time. Familiar jokes started on Varun’s height.

There was nothing special on the island. It was as if a landmass was deliberately converted into a tourist spot. The greenery must have been attractive to some but not for us. To the other visitors however, our group was the special sight. Where else would one find so much diversity (Assam, Himachal, Andhra, Delhi, Haryana, Punjab) in a single group.

We came across another noisy spot. Here people were allowed to go into the water. We had already had enough of bathing in Goa, so we just hung around for a while and then started back. We took a group pic with the motorcycles in the parking lot. Other tourists were also clicking the pic.

Next on the list was Edakkal caves. This sight had come into our coverage through scoopwhoop. In fact, the mention of this place had changed our entire itinerary inside Kerala. We had made our way inwards from the coast to cover Edakkal. But on the way back to Pulpally it started to rain, that too heavily. Rohit, Satish and I were together at this point and we stopped outside a house to take shelter. While we put on our rain suits, an elderly lady welcomed us. We would have had a lovely chat if not for the language issue. She was supremely jovial. We caught up with the rest of the group and waited for the rain to subside a little.

On reaching back to the hotel, it was decided to hire a jeep and head to Edakkal. We were not taking chance of riding in the rain now. There would be ample time to do that in the following days. All nine of us crammed into the Mahindra Jeep. We had lots of laughs when the driver insisted on Nilu sitting besides the driver. The gearshift would have been very interesting. Fortunately for Nilu, the Jeep didn’t require much of it. There’s enough torque to carry the Jeep in top gear. We also picked up some croissants to help us on the way.

We reached the parking lot and then started the ascent to the caves on foot. It was a very steep path. Gyan was soon panting and wheezing. Nilu has become fitter than before and didn’t pant as much. I have also become fitter due to marathons and did not tire easily. Satish was caught by a travelling couple to click a photo of them and send it by mail later. We suggested Satish to wait here and continue with other couples while we take the trek. He would’ve made enough to cover his Ride expenses.

It was nice to see that guards did not allow plastic bottles without a refundable deposit. These bottles are the cause of trash lying around in places. This practice should be followed in other states as well.

We reached the lower cave after much climbing. Natural water is used to refill bottles here. Then the ascent to the upper cave started. Although exhausting, the view from above was marvelous. Rocky ridges stood above the greenery of abundant palms. These views make traveling the distance worth it.

The security inside the cave served as guides too. No wonder he spoke clear English as well as Hindi. He described to us the history of the 6000 years old inscriptions.

Right at the corner of the Edakkal (between two stones) cave was a large crack between the mountains. This spot is marketed as a viewpoint. The might of nature can be felt at this viewpoint.

It took us some time for the descent and when we reached the Jeep, the driver was nowhere to be found. While he returned we discussed on the next spot to explore. A sad phenomenon about the state is that all tourist spots close at 4 pm. This left us no time to explore our third spot, the dam. Damn. We asked the driver on suggestions for the next place, but to no avail. He didn’t understand a word we spoke. BK called up a Mallu friend of his to act as interpreter.

So, we decided to return. Along the way, we were on the lookout for a toddy shop. But the driver was again not understanding. He drove non-stop towards Pulpally. We straightaway headed to the restaurant from where Rohit and Zaheer had picked up our dinner the previous night. Beef and chicken dishes were ordered with Malabar parota, and some veg, the spoilsport.

We had a good amount of leftover from the previous night for today’s dinner. So, while some hung around the small market, some rested and Nilu and BK went to pick up supplies for the night. This time we bought in moderate. Our caretaker, Wilson had taken fancy to the coffee maker of Rohit and was ready to buy it from him. No price would make him part with it during the Ride. This was Rohit’s most valuable possession. Wilson had to relent but Rohit promised he would send him one. We had a lot of travelling to do in the following days. Meanwhile trouble started for two riders. Gyan and Satish got upset stomachs. All the hogging of the past few days took its toll. It can cause great discomfort on a ride.

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15^th Nov 2014: Wayanad to Allepey

We had four action packed days of continuous riding now. We had kept the distance limited having no idea of how long it would take. We estimated we could cover 300 kms in 7 hours. How hard could it be? It turned out to be very hard. Leaving early from Pulpally helped us cover a good distance. We had taken a longer route through Sultan Bathery and the roadside view was fantastic along with a gentle mist.

This was turning out to be a most pleasant experience until we reached the Ghats. 

The road grew narrow again and traffic increased. And then we reached the bustling city of Kozhikode. Our progress had slowed very much now and we stopped for breakfast. This place turned out to be the worst one during our Ride. They served us cold food. The good part about it was we were done and dusted with the place in 30 mins. This must have been our fastest breakfast.

We were away from the countryside now and were travelling through THE town with no boundaries. This “town” covers the entire coastline of Kerala. I’ll refer it to as “Dread” town. Roads go anywhere to everywhere in this town and there is civilization throughout the highway sides, on both sides. Household gates open right on the highway. The traffic is continuous with all sorts of vehicles. Buses are extra wide and always driving in the centre of the road offering little chance of overtaking. While we were enjoying the touristy spots and toddy bars, Dread was having its toll.

My Bullet was also having some electrical trouble when the speed exceeded 80. So, I had to keep it below 70 which became a problem when overtaking. Don’t be disillusioned by the speed mentioned. It was rarely that we reached them. Dread made sure we didn’t. Even if we somehow managed to reach it Dread ensured that we brake that instant.

Back on NH17, the road width improved after Edappal. The first signs of trouble showed when someone pointed out that Satish’s Thunderbird was making too much noise. After this was mentioned even Satish began to worry. He hadn’t realized the noise before this. It turned out that the oil level had fallen drastically. It took frantic searching to find 20W50 grade oil.

After Edappal, each one of us went in different directions. At Kunnamkulam, a series of turns confused the entire group. Some took the road to Thrissur, some towards Guruvayur, while some went in a third direction. Rohit, Zaheer and I were headed towards Guruvayur. Three different groups in three different directions. We stopped for lunch and also to gather our bearings.

Messages in the Whatsapp group were even more confusing. All pin-drops were at different times so there was no way where the dropper would be at this point. The best bet was to continue to Allepey and meet at Hotel Raiban only. The waiter at the hotel suggested that we take a ferry at Vypin on the ay to Allepey. This got us very excited to have a unique experience.

We could take consolation in the fact that we were experiencing Coastal Ride. NH17 to Thrissur was inwards, away from the sea. Now that the chances of regrouping looked bleak, the idea of heading to Vypin sounded great. It would delay us but at least we would have experienced something special. Rohit badly wanted a ‘Swades’ pic.

When we reached Paravoor, and asked the distance to Vypin, it was learnt that the 30 kms would not be on good roads. So, the ferry plan was ditched and we continued on the Dread roads. At places, the road grew so narrow that it was impossible to see it as a highway. By now the sun was also setting. Kochi was madly crowded. Even though the highway had now broadened, the massive traffic kept us slow. 60 kms still remained till Allepey. The three of us stuck together. It had grown dark now.

The four-lane reconverted into two-lane. On our final break before Allepey, we learnt that Satish’s Bullet was again giving trouble. They had taken a long time at the service station and then decided to halt at Kochi for the night.

We were glad to regroup at Kochi, but disappointed to see the hotel rooms. They were shabby. It looked like the small Pahargunj room. We were too exhausted to complain. It had taken us more than 14 hours to cover the 320 kms today. Nilu shocked everyone by leaving for official work at Chingavanam. He wasn’t having a true vacation. Bosses always play spoilsport. The rest of us stepped out into the town looking for a bar.

We came across one at a hotel. There was only one waiter handling everything. He was courteous but pushy. We had to order hurriedly and we ordered a lot of it. When the pomfrets arrived, they were bathed in oil. Kingfisher strong was the only option available. So, we spent a lot of money and didn’t enjoy it. We all admired the patience of the waiter though to carry out all his duties without losing his cool.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a roadside stall to have dosa with chhole, an unusual combination. But it was tasty. We all enjoyed the Rs 100 meal at this point much more than the Rs 2200 snacks at the bar. Exhausted we crashed out.