Thar to Pilibhit
HAPPY NEW YEAR
On New Year's Day, the following joined me on this trip:
Pradeep Phartyal, Asok Rana and Me - Mahindra Thar
Satadal Payeng - Hero Impulse
Nilutpal Hazarika - KTM Duke 390
Pradeep and I celebrated the New Year's eve at my place and slept as early as possible. Payengda came to wish us Happy New Year at midnight and immediately left, confirming that he would meet us the next day. At 6:15 AM, we set off, picked up Ranaji from Bijwasan, met Nilu at NH-24 and continued to Brijghat. We had managed to scrape through the odd/even timings delayed by 2 minutes. Payengda had to stop briefly to take out extra gloves as his hands grew numb. He was also having difficulty walking in his proper riding boots.
It was only a few kms ahead when the high population area subsided and a dense fog enveloped us. The going got extremely slow. Within this low visibility we could see many vehicles in pile-ups. All must have left their homes in a celebration mode and now it was ruined. After seeing a major one, we stopped on the side to have a break. We had planned to cover a good distance before taking a break, but seeing all the mishaps and the fog made us stop more frequently. We again stopped at Gajraula after crossing the River Ganges for breakfast.
Breakfast is the time when we could all gather and talk leisurely. The fog had also lifted by now. A game of finding peanuts from a bag followed where the shells were also thrown in for the challenge. Parathas and tea followed. The sun was out now and we soaked in the warmth. Sitting there at a roadside dhaba with our vehicles in the parking and looking at the passing traffic, this is the world where we feel belonged. This is the world we yearn for. They say that the activity one indulges in at the beginning of the year becomes regular for the next of the year. We had started with travelling and if that becomes even more regular this year than the last, there would be nothing like it. As discussion flowed around this topic, it came out that Pradeep started this year with a whiskey peg while Asok started with sleeping. 2016 would be an interesting one indeed.
We were past the heavy traffic area and now the progress was swift. The road condition was excellent. Moradabad and Rampur were crossed with ease when Payengda noticed a wide array of trucks on the side of the road, each one without a body. This called for a break. Five years of no ride had taken a toll on his body. He was aching. This is what turns me off from expensive gear. You buy an expensive jacket. Undoubtedly, its safe, but when the weather starts to get warmer, it is a pain to ride in even with opened vents. The riding boots are not walkable.
As we set off again, we were enjoying continuous bakchodi in our Jeep. Nearing Bareilly, wildlife encounters started increasing. First there was a snake that almost came under Nilu's KTM even when he and his bike were glowing orange in the bright sun. Then a jackal on the side of the road. Then what looked like a bustard when we stopped to have some guavas. All these sights encouraged us. We were hopeful that the sightings would lead to a tiger after all in the reserve.
The road was alright until we took the turn from Bareilly bye-pass towards Pilibhit. Then it broke down. Great big potholes that could engulf small cars. To add to it there was dust everywhere. Once, while trailing a truck, we were nearly blinded from all the dust. It looked like a sandstorm. The bikers must have rode head first into it. The Pilibhit town was 40 kms away. After 20 kms the road condition improved and we stopped at a small dhaba for lunch. We had been on the lookout for a wine shop, but none could be located, not even a sign-post. While I had enjoyed the off-roading bout, my passengers must have been shaken and jarred.
The cook at the dhaba was another story though. Whatever question we asked he replied in a very indirect manner. When asked about dal, he replied that it wouldn't taste like Pakistani dal. We had a plain meal here and set off. Now I let loose a surprise. I asked my navigators to look for Pilibhit Tiger Reserve on their maps. They were stunned on seeing that the Reserve was 40 kms ahead of the town of Pilibhit. They weren't prepared for this but now there was no choice. The road conditions improved further on, although it still wasn't smooth and we reached Puranpur. From here the reserve was 20 kms away through a narrow road.
While the bikers filled up yet again, we asked around whether there was a place to stay inside the Reserve. The young man responded joyfully. He started showing us his photographs taken at the canal just outside the Reserve boundary. No, there were no animals in those pics, only his personal pics in a variety of poses. He recommended staying at Puranpur only and then leave for the Reserve in the morning "with a fresh mind".
The search for Hotel Ram took us through the centre of the city and around until we reached the place. The place was basic but with an option of a family room. It was time for the evening meeting now. It had already grown dark. On asking the staff about the Reserve details, we were not given any. There isn't much tourist flow in these parts. Our attendant, Rajiv was very courteous though. He knew exactly what we wanted and arranged everything promptly in the room. We now understood what sort of crowd comes to this place.
The evening council meeting began with a loud cheers. It was great to start the New Year on such a high note amongst this great company. A huge platter of snacks was ordered containing fried chicken, finger chips, peanut masala and green salad.
We had started unusually early at 6 PM. We had ample time but even then it passed so quickly. Rajiv was exceptional in his service. Payengda was easily the superstar. The extra-ordinary events were when he almost fell outside the curtained window and when his last words before falling to sleep were "Putin is a great guy".
2 Jan 2016:
We had to wake up early so that we could go for a safari. Unsure of what to expect inside the boundaries, we had our breakfast at the hotel only. Nilu and Payengda had to leave for Delhi today only. Nilu pointed out the Thar's loose fenders that needed immediate fixing at the workshop across the road. Since this would take some time, they left our group in order to reach Delhi before dark.
With the fenders tightened, we headed off to the sanctuary. The road turned narrow and bumpy. The passenger at the back of a Thar is most uncomfortable among all the 3 occupants. Pradeep and Asok managed that position in turns. The driver is the most comfortable. We passed several sugarcane fields and the fresh crop attracted Pradeep's attention. We stopped besides a farm where the owner sent out his attendant to bring a good piece of cane. It was quite sweet indeed. The drawback is that it is messy to eat and cuts the tongue. We thanked the farmer and continued on till we reached a wide canal and beyond it started the boundary of the sanctuary.
The water in the canal was quite clean. That must have been the secret of such sweet crop in the region. The site was perfect for Asok to have his photo shoot. Some other visitors also arrived and had their photo shoot with the Thar. I think I should charge a ticket for having my Thar as the background.
The unique bit about the Pilibhit Tiger Reserve is that it hasn't been well established yet, so they allow one to drive his own vehicle inside. This was a great opportunity for the Thar to tread on forest ground. Photo shoot opportunities were in abundance inside the reserve.
However, it also made us anxious as we were surrounded by dense foliage that could hide some nasty surprise. As much as we wanted to have a tiger sighting, it would be welcomed only from inside the safe confines of the Jeep rather than face to face. The wild nature of big cats can never be under-estimated. The guard at the gate had spotted one near his sentry point a few days earlier. Such encounters were frequent in this region.
We travelled for 4 kms and reached the Chuka Resort in the midst of the Reserve besides the big Sharda Sagar lake. There were no sightings upto this point. Rehmat Shah greeted us near the canteen and assigned Zeeshan as our guide. He told us that the resort was fully booked till 5th Jan. We would have to look for alternate arrangements for the night stay. But the first priority was the safari. Since it was nearing lunch time and 2 PM is their usual time for safari, we ordered our lunch and then went for a short drive into the jungle to have a round of drinks.
As we reached a good spot quite close to the resort and I started preparing the drinks sitting on a tree stump, Pradeep suddenly noticed pug marks on the path. They looked very fresh. This sight was enough to make us clamber back into the vehicle. We even raised the windows to 3-quarters position. It gave a false sense of security as the soft top of the Thar would be no match for a curious tiger but still it was better than nothing. We expected a cat to jump out at any time but that did not happen. We finished our drink uneasily, headed back to the resort and had our lunch.
Now we set off along with Zeeshan for a safari in the Thar. The dust on the path was easily getting inside the vehicle and soon everyone of us was covered in it. No matter how slow I drove, the passengers at the back had to hold the canopy to avoid the entry of the dust. One is allowed beyond the inner checkpoints only when accompanied by a guide. At every checkpoint, we heard encounter story from the guards. This increased our morale but still a sighting was out of reach. We headed deeper into the jungle until we came upon another checkpoint. The ranger at this point, Lala Ram Ji was a veteran. We were now entering an area where the sighting was even more frequent. We moved past a watering hole and then onwards but were still not rewarded. The most beautiful of the big cats eluded us. Deers were around in plenty making us hate the sight of them. Also worth noticing was one stray monkey walking along the safari path like Bond. He was noticed several times. It seemed as if this creature alone was keeping the big cats at bay.
After eating more dust, we arrived at another watering hole besides which lay a croc. These are the laziest creatures. We started our return and met Lala Ram Ji on his regular scouting. He suggested us to head to the tower besides the watering hole. At sunset, a tiger usually arrives there. This seemed like a great idea and we quickly headed to the spot and climbed the tower. Our progress was made even quicker when Asok heard a snapping sound behind him.
A couple of deers were grazing and drinking at the spot. We remained as quiet as possible, barely talking and that too in whispers. The view from the tower was magnificent. A huge grassland lay in front of us. A tiger could be laying anywhere and we wouldn't be able to spot him. The only chance was if he stepped out from the grass to have a drink.
Half an hour must have passed and the two deers remained in their position. Our frustration of not having spotted a tiger transformed into hatred of the deers. When it began to grow dark we descended down the tower and started our return. We still kept a good lookout for shiny eyes, but today just wasn't our day. A mist started to form and it appeared as if we were crossing a ghostly realm.
Moreover, we didn't know where we would be staying for the night. This situation however improved as we reached the resort and Zeeshan told us that we could have the tree house for the night. The party that had booked it hadn't arrived.
The tree house looked wonderful. There was even a balcony where we could enjoy the evening. But it was constantly creaking. We got used to the sound quickly and when we sat around in the cold balcony, the atmosphere grew enjoyable. We had booked an early safari for the next morning. Snacks were brought in to the house but we had to go to the common kitchen for dinner. It had grown quite chilly now and the 100m to the kitchen were covered in near-sprint as there was complete darkness surrounding us. There was no telling what lay in it. We retired early to get up early.
3rd Jan 2016:
We got up very early and had to wake up Zeeshan for the early morning tea. By 6:10 AM we set off. The jungle had an eerie look in the night. It didn't have any effect on the dust pouring into the vehicle though. We were constantly seeking a shiny pair of eyes. Dawn is usually said to be the best time to see the tiger. Dawn turned into daybreak as we crossed the watchtower of yesterday, went ahead for quite a distance. Pug marks were noticed coming our way for a good amount of distance, but the sight of the animal eluded us.
The sun was out now and it looked as if this just wasn't in our luck. A brief moment of elation came when Zeeshan noticed a shadow up ahead in the distance, but when we reached closer, it turned out to be another fuckin deer. Zeeshan took us to another route where the Thar travelled through elephant grass. I was enjoying the drive the most. Our exasperation turned into taunts towards the forest rangers. We returned to the resort at 10, without a sighting.
We finished breakfast, settled our dues and started our return journey, this time through Khatima. The initial 10 kms was totally broken after which the condition improved by miles. This joy was short lived as we knew the stretch from Khatima to Rampur is one of the worst roads. The Thar was totally knocked up. To make up for the bad travel, we stopped at a recommended restaurant in Rudrapur, Punjabi Handi. The food was good. Crossing bad traffic and crowded tolls, we reached back to our homes, all shaken up. It had been a tiring drive for all of us.
Although we didn't get to see a tiger, the place was wonderful. It would be a good idea to visit and do as many safaris in your own vehicle before it gets too commercialized. The New Year started with a great travel with great buddies and hope the rest of the year passes this way too.
Route taken: Gurgaon - Moradabad - Rampur - Bareilly - Pilibhit - Puranpur - Tiger Reserve
Route while returning: Tiger Reserve - Khatima - Rudrapur - Rampur - Moradabad - Gurgaon.
We were past the heavy traffic area and now the progress was swift. The road condition was excellent. Moradabad and Rampur were crossed with ease when Payengda noticed a wide array of trucks on the side of the road, each one without a body. This called for a break. Five years of no ride had taken a toll on his body. He was aching. This is what turns me off from expensive gear. You buy an expensive jacket. Undoubtedly, its safe, but when the weather starts to get warmer, it is a pain to ride in even with opened vents. The riding boots are not walkable.
The road was alright until we took the turn from Bareilly bye-pass towards Pilibhit. Then it broke down. Great big potholes that could engulf small cars. To add to it there was dust everywhere. Once, while trailing a truck, we were nearly blinded from all the dust. It looked like a sandstorm. The bikers must have rode head first into it. The Pilibhit town was 40 kms away. After 20 kms the road condition improved and we stopped at a small dhaba for lunch. We had been on the lookout for a wine shop, but none could be located, not even a sign-post. While I had enjoyed the off-roading bout, my passengers must have been shaken and jarred.
The cook at the dhaba was another story though. Whatever question we asked he replied in a very indirect manner. When asked about dal, he replied that it wouldn't taste like Pakistani dal. We had a plain meal here and set off. Now I let loose a surprise. I asked my navigators to look for Pilibhit Tiger Reserve on their maps. They were stunned on seeing that the Reserve was 40 kms ahead of the town of Pilibhit. They weren't prepared for this but now there was no choice. The road conditions improved further on, although it still wasn't smooth and we reached Puranpur. From here the reserve was 20 kms away through a narrow road.
While the bikers filled up yet again, we asked around whether there was a place to stay inside the Reserve. The young man responded joyfully. He started showing us his photographs taken at the canal just outside the Reserve boundary. No, there were no animals in those pics, only his personal pics in a variety of poses. He recommended staying at Puranpur only and then leave for the Reserve in the morning "with a fresh mind".
The search for Hotel Ram took us through the centre of the city and around until we reached the place. The place was basic but with an option of a family room. It was time for the evening meeting now. It had already grown dark. On asking the staff about the Reserve details, we were not given any. There isn't much tourist flow in these parts. Our attendant, Rajiv was very courteous though. He knew exactly what we wanted and arranged everything promptly in the room. We now understood what sort of crowd comes to this place.
2 Jan 2016:
We had to wake up early so that we could go for a safari. Unsure of what to expect inside the boundaries, we had our breakfast at the hotel only. Nilu and Payengda had to leave for Delhi today only. Nilu pointed out the Thar's loose fenders that needed immediate fixing at the workshop across the road. Since this would take some time, they left our group in order to reach Delhi before dark.
With the fenders tightened, we headed off to the sanctuary. The road turned narrow and bumpy. The passenger at the back of a Thar is most uncomfortable among all the 3 occupants. Pradeep and Asok managed that position in turns. The driver is the most comfortable. We passed several sugarcane fields and the fresh crop attracted Pradeep's attention. We stopped besides a farm where the owner sent out his attendant to bring a good piece of cane. It was quite sweet indeed. The drawback is that it is messy to eat and cuts the tongue. We thanked the farmer and continued on till we reached a wide canal and beyond it started the boundary of the sanctuary.
The unique bit about the Pilibhit Tiger Reserve is that it hasn't been well established yet, so they allow one to drive his own vehicle inside. This was a great opportunity for the Thar to tread on forest ground. Photo shoot opportunities were in abundance inside the reserve.
We travelled for 4 kms and reached the Chuka Resort in the midst of the Reserve besides the big Sharda Sagar lake. There were no sightings upto this point. Rehmat Shah greeted us near the canteen and assigned Zeeshan as our guide. He told us that the resort was fully booked till 5th Jan. We would have to look for alternate arrangements for the night stay. But the first priority was the safari. Since it was nearing lunch time and 2 PM is their usual time for safari, we ordered our lunch and then went for a short drive into the jungle to have a round of drinks.
As we reached a good spot quite close to the resort and I started preparing the drinks sitting on a tree stump, Pradeep suddenly noticed pug marks on the path. They looked very fresh. This sight was enough to make us clamber back into the vehicle. We even raised the windows to 3-quarters position. It gave a false sense of security as the soft top of the Thar would be no match for a curious tiger but still it was better than nothing. We expected a cat to jump out at any time but that did not happen. We finished our drink uneasily, headed back to the resort and had our lunch.
After eating more dust, we arrived at another watering hole besides which lay a croc. These are the laziest creatures. We started our return and met Lala Ram Ji on his regular scouting. He suggested us to head to the tower besides the watering hole. At sunset, a tiger usually arrives there. This seemed like a great idea and we quickly headed to the spot and climbed the tower. Our progress was made even quicker when Asok heard a snapping sound behind him.
The tree house looked wonderful. There was even a balcony where we could enjoy the evening. But it was constantly creaking. We got used to the sound quickly and when we sat around in the cold balcony, the atmosphere grew enjoyable. We had booked an early safari for the next morning. Snacks were brought in to the house but we had to go to the common kitchen for dinner. It had grown quite chilly now and the 100m to the kitchen were covered in near-sprint as there was complete darkness surrounding us. There was no telling what lay in it. We retired early to get up early.
We got up very early and had to wake up Zeeshan for the early morning tea. By 6:10 AM we set off. The jungle had an eerie look in the night. It didn't have any effect on the dust pouring into the vehicle though. We were constantly seeking a shiny pair of eyes. Dawn is usually said to be the best time to see the tiger. Dawn turned into daybreak as we crossed the watchtower of yesterday, went ahead for quite a distance. Pug marks were noticed coming our way for a good amount of distance, but the sight of the animal eluded us.
The sun was out now and it looked as if this just wasn't in our luck. A brief moment of elation came when Zeeshan noticed a shadow up ahead in the distance, but when we reached closer, it turned out to be another fuckin deer. Zeeshan took us to another route where the Thar travelled through elephant grass. I was enjoying the drive the most. Our exasperation turned into taunts towards the forest rangers. We returned to the resort at 10, without a sighting.
We finished breakfast, settled our dues and started our return journey, this time through Khatima. The initial 10 kms was totally broken after which the condition improved by miles. This joy was short lived as we knew the stretch from Khatima to Rampur is one of the worst roads. The Thar was totally knocked up. To make up for the bad travel, we stopped at a recommended restaurant in Rudrapur, Punjabi Handi. The food was good. Crossing bad traffic and crowded tolls, we reached back to our homes, all shaken up. It had been a tiring drive for all of us.
Although we didn't get to see a tiger, the place was wonderful. It would be a good idea to visit and do as many safaris in your own vehicle before it gets too commercialized. The New Year started with a great travel with great buddies and hope the rest of the year passes this way too.
Route taken: Gurgaon - Moradabad - Rampur - Bareilly - Pilibhit - Puranpur - Tiger Reserve
Route while returning: Tiger Reserve - Khatima - Rudrapur - Rampur - Moradabad - Gurgaon.
Labels: Mahindra Thar, Pilibhit
posted by Ken Slayer at 5:05 AM
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