Bulls on Parade to Rann

The Preps:

The Rann of Kutch has been a long sought after destination for years. They say that the vastness simply has to be seen to be believed. But it brings along with it certain limitations. The Ride had to be longer than a week. It couldn't be a touch-and-go kind of Ride. Since, leaves for more than a week come annually, I had to forsake other 2-week Rides during the year. This also restricts the travel duration between November and February. Lots of research and discussions later the initial plan was laid. We had decided to celebrate the Anniversary together with our brothers in other cities. Four of us would start from NCR, one from Bangalore (Satish) and one from Pune (BK). The Ride dates were proposed from 19th to 29th Nov. In fact, Rann wasn't even the intended destination at that time. We learnt that it is not dried in Nov. With dejected hearts we had to forsake and look for other locations where the North and South chapters could gather together. Madhya Pradesh is not good for riding given the road conditions. Rajasthan, our traditional Anniversary destination, had been extensively covered already. So, we stuck to Gujarat and opted for Gir and Dwarka instead.

But November is wedding season too, Ankit had to attend two weddings in between the Ride dates. Given that he is the most active participant we started to look at alternative dates. The new dates were finalised as 14-24 Dec after much brain storming. After such a heavy discussion, there was no room left for negotiation. If another person were now to join the Ride and suggested a date change he would have been royally abused to no end. No one did. 

Research also suggested that Gir and Dwarka are not very attractive places. Since our dates had postponed, we reverted the target as Rann. It should get fairly dry by then, hopefully. We were delighted now. This was the chance to visit the Great Rann of Kutch, only heard in stories till now. A dream would be fulfilled. We decided to carry tents to camp on the White Rann in the moonlight. This was to remain a dream though. 

As usual, there were dropouts as the dates got closer. Satish had to attend his sister's wedding. Ranaji got unsure due to family issues. The rest of us were totally excited. I was doubly excited as I would be covering a state I haven't ever been to before. That would leave only 3 more Indian states to cover. So on the date before the departure, following were confirmed:

Zaheer Saifi - Royal Enfield Electra 4S - Rajaji - Sooji hai?

Ankit Gupta - Royal Enfield Classic 350 - Guptaji - Bahot takleef hoti hogi

BK Atreya - Royal Enfield Electra TS 350 - BK - Aao tum

Diptinder Singh Chhabra - Royal Enfield Electra 4S - Dips - Customer to hum bhi hain

In the above section, BK's introduction is highly abridged. If his proper introduction is written, I'll run out of space in this blog. That is why during the Ride whenever some curious people approached BK to ask about his whereabouts, the rest of us went for a meal, finish it and rejoin. The response of a simple question "aap kahan se ho?" . There are many states and union territories involved.

14 Dec 2016:

BK was to travel from Pune to Surat today. Meanwhile in NCR, our itinerary was to cover 750 kms today to Abu Road. This would be the only long haul of this Ride. It had been planned this way so that we could take it easy on the rest of the days with adequate buffer days. Given the terrific Rajasthan roads, it would not be a problem to cover this distance. Guptaji and I had covered 890 kms to Jaisalmer last year in 16 hours easily. For Rajaji, this would be his longest haul. We were to gather at Leisure Valley Park at 4 AM. With remarkable co-incidence, all three of us rode in together, no waiting. So after fumbling with the luggage for a while, we set off. 

The weather was cold, but not biting cold. The early morning start gave us good progress. However, as with recent events, no sentence is complete without the mention of demonetisation. Had the dates been in Nov, we would not have enough cash with us to go on a Ride. It would have got cancelled. Even in Dec, we could see its effect on the traffic. There were less trucks on the road and even fewer cabs and private vehicles. All this proved advantageous for us as we covered distance quickly without getting stuck in traffic that usually plies on this busy highway. By sunrise, we had made it to Hotel Highway King beyond Behror for breakfast, covering more than 100 kms. 

Omelettes were ordered along with hot tea and butter toast. For the second cup of tea, we took to the party loans soaking the sunshine. A glorious Wednesday. Rajaji was in a great mood. He had been yearning to come on a Ride for long and had managed to come on a 9-days long ride now.

Another 100 km haul with a slight mis-navigation on part of Guptaji as he went towards Jaipur city. We were now on the smooth Jaipur-Ajmer stretch. We stopped for a tea break. Being in Rajasthan, one has to eat kachodi. Here it was served without kadi so Guptaji did not have any. The weather was turning warm now. 

The next run was a very long one. I missed seeing the front runners as they stopped for Pollution check and continued on thinking they might be ahead. I crossed Beawar and was nearing Pali before becoming aware of an incoming phone call. Guptaji had been trying for a long time. Once communication was established, I stopped at the nearby dhaba for lunch, there were not many on this stretch. The last run had been close to 200 kms long. 

Traditional Rajasthani lunch of sev tamater, gatta sabzi were savoured, all dripping in oil, along with bajra roti. To our surprise this was the first time Rajaji was having these dishes despite having travelled to Rajasthan a few times, with us only. We took some rest before continuing. The stretch from Pali to Sirohi has become even more fantastic than last year. It had grown dark now and we could see the road climbing. It was a small hill section and then lo and behold, we entered a tunnel. It was the first time, we were covering this section of the road. We gave the revs a healthy turn. It was a very short tunnel but our excitement was orgasmic. 

With 60 kms to go, we stopped for our final tea break. It had started to become cold now, but it was not as cold as Delhi. The roads had been a breeze throughout and we were not that tired even after covering close to 700 kms. On reaching Abu Road, we began to look for a hotel. There were many besides the highway, but we were not interested in that. The priority was next day's breakfast. That would be desirable only close to the city. So we took the turn towards the city and settled on Manali Guest House. 

Our room was on the third floor and carrying the luggage through the narrow staircase exhausted us more than the full day's ride. Manual ascension is simply not in our blood. We quickly dumped our luggage and went out to get dinner packed. We were guided by the guest house host towards the nearby Masjid. On reaching the spot, our mouths drooled looking at the platter of dishes on offer. Snacks and biryani were ordered as we went around looking for other accessories needed with alcohol. Unfortunately, someone else had made off with our dinner and so the food had to be re-prepared. 

We returned to our room and took out the Old Monk I had been carrying from Delhi. We were prepared for this to be our last alcohol intake before entering Gujarat. So Guptaji and I gulped it down eagerly. It was a bit too eager as both of us conked off to sleep without touching the dinner. Rajaji was the only one who could savour the taste. For Guptaji and me, this was a pleasant surprise as Rajaji never eats non-veg food outside his home. 

Route taken:
(Delhi - Beawar - Abu Road)

15th Dec 2016:

We would be entering the state of Gujarat today. The next 7 days were expected to be alcohol-free. We only had 160 kms of riding planned for today. Last night we had got in touch with BK also and asked if he could stretch his run so that we could make it a bit farther today. He declined as he had to make a stopover at Ahmedabad too. 

We had ample time on our hands today. But first, breakfast. At least that was the priority for Guptaji and me. For Rajaji, it was a trip to the barber to get a shave. He wanted to look his best for the Gujarati bens. We burst out laughing when he returned. He looked like a school boy. A trip to Jodhpur sweets provided much needed food for Guptaji and me. We were feeling famished right now having skipped dinner. 

Then Guptaji went to the nearby Bullet mechanic to get his extra light fitments fixed. A joining plate had broken off the day before. We loaded up our Bullets now and then started towards Mount Abu. We had enough time on our hands to explore the only hill station of Rajasthan. We were still looking for some poha to complete our breakfast. This was obtained after getting out of the Abu Road city and just before the roads ascended to Mount Abu. This was followed by mirchi pakoda served in a curry and in such generous amount that we could not finish. 

Now that our tummies were full, we started the hill ride. It was funny as we were expecting to ride on plains for the whole ride. The highway at the tunnel section near Sirohi and Mount Abu had turned this into a hill ride. I had been disinterested in visiting Mount Abu having seen it earlier in July 2009, but the ride was rejuvenating. It also gave me the chance to Ride to this place having visited in a car earlier. 

Being Thursday, it was less crowded at Nakki lake. Rajaji and Guptaji had turned adventurous and went to try water Zorbing. They kept falling down much to my and the crowd's amusement. It took a good amount of time for them to learn the technique, but when they did, they sped up real fast. The crowd was also fascinated.

After the zorbing, we went for boating. The rates have skyrocketed from the time I was last here and it was not worth it also. Still, we were just looking for relaxation and enjoyed it. There were conflicts between Rajaji and me over the steering with Guptaji navigating.

After boating there wasn't much to do here. We hunted around for some fresh fruit juice, without luck. So started our way towards Gujarat.

On crossing the state border after Abu Road, Rajaji was stopped at the police check post. It is a universal truth that only Rajaji is stopped at check posts. It happened during the West Coast Ride also. Out of the whole group, he is the one selected from afar. While Rajaji was thinking that his bag was being checked for smuggled liquor, the police were instead searching for black money. Such surprise checks have been going on lately in the whole country. I hope it is bringing good results. Seeing me approach, the cop asked me if I was carrying any black money. I was stunned and didn't know how to respond. So, just laughed it off.

Now we were in Gujarat, for the first time. We hadn't done much research and took things as they came. During our entire nine-day stay here, we had made only one advance booking at Rann, even with the tourist season in progress. Rest would be all spontaneous. The roads were terrific as expected. The only traffic jam we encountered was at a roundabout at Palanpur and that too was circumnavigated with ease on our Bullets. The standout were road-signs cautioning the traffic to be on the lookout for wrong-side traffic. We did encounter lots of these violations by all kinds of vehicles, from two-wheelers to 18-wheelers. So it was considered as a given here that traffic would come on the wrong side, beware of it. Entering Gujarat also gave the first sighting of Chakda, modified Diesel Enfields to carry passengers.

We reached Radhanpur when it was dark and waited for BK to join us here. Some ice cream helped to pass the time. Meanwhile some behind the scenes planning was going on. Given the road conditions, it would be easy to travel in night also. We thought of heading till Rapar which would make it easy for us to travel to Dholavira the next day. BK had travelled more than 450 kms already, so he was not eager to ride another 110 kms, whatever the road conditions might be. A deal was struck with the destination decided midway to Santalpur, 60 kms away. Bargaining is our birth right.

Our squadron was complete now. Well, four members can hardly be called a squadron, but we were the best there is of what is left. BK was attired in his steel-looking arm and knee guards and was ready for battle. A couple of local boys had come up to have a chat. They had also supplied us with some valuable information on where we could procure some "essentials". I'll refrain from expanding, but at the end of it, we did have our essentials. Now we had to find a place to put up for the night. It would have to be a highway stop only since Santalpur turned out to be a village with no stay options. Guptaji is an expert in this field and took us 5 kms back to a roadside hotel where for an economic rate of Rs 200 per head, we had a huge hall all to ourselves. Four of us with a nine-bed option. Since it was on top of a 24-hour dhaba, we did not have to worry about last order timings or snacks. For me, this was the best stay of the Ride.

With BK now joining us, the night went very long. Guptaji had procured a large 1 kg packet of sev that would serve as chakhna for the whole Ride. Later when we descended to have dinner, our volumes were loud. Fortunately there were no other guests and we did not make a scene.

Route taken:
(Abu Road - Palanpur - Santalpur)

16 Dec 2016:

We woke up to the sound of Harleys. Several were seen heading towards Rann. The Tent city at Dhordo must have been fully booked. We got ready at leisure. One of the attractions we were looking forward to was Wild Ass Sanctuary near Adesar as displayed by Google Maps. Before heading to Dholavira, we wanted to explore this place and possibly camp for the night. Luckily the Forest Department office was just 1 km away. On reaching the spot, we asked around and the caretaker put us through to a forest officer who was near Patan, 120 kms away. Camping was ruled out completely by the officer. The whole region is protected one. We could see the reason as there were several migratory birds around. This was the Little Rann. We were now in the largest district of India, Kutch, covering an area of 45674 sq km.

However, the caretaker did point us to Piprala from where we could enter the Little Rann on our motorcycles and possibly explore more if we could cross the wet sections. We took the chance. As per itinerary, today was a buffer day only. We had the time to explore. On reaching the Piprala village, various enquiries told us that Little Rann is not accessible. But we were stubborn. Guptaji and I had experienced Micro Rann earlier, in Rajasthan. So, we had to prepare to stay a while at Little Rann. That meant procuring supplies, which here were in the form of carrots and Parle G.

Now came the task of finding a way through the ridges into the Little Rann. Thorny scrubs adorned the whole landscape. The Bullets were riding over this foliage. At some points in the valleys, the soft ground slowed the Bullets down. We slithered and slided through that terrain. We had to stop and recce the terrain ahead before attempting them on the Bullets. At many places, we had to turn back. It was a task to turn the Bullets around in that narrow space. It took a good amount of time to find a route, but we did. In the meantime, Guptaji completed a particularly dangerous manoeuvre over a ridge which the rest of us bypassed. I would not have dared taking my Bullet down that slope. However, it must be mentioned that it was on this bypass that BK and Rajaji suffered a fall each, without any damage to themselves or the machines. The elements of the Ride were getting completed.

Now we had the seemingly endless playground of Little Rann all to ourselves with no other soul in sight. Everyone scattered in different directions much to Guptaji's disappointment who was taking a video. That is the beauty of this place. One could be riding a mile away and still be visible in that terrain. We got together after some frolicking around, parked our motorcycles wide and used a tarpaulin to make a temporary campsite. The breeze was cool, but the bright sun was making it hot. That is why under the tarpaulin shade, it was cool. We soaked in the isolation of that place.

We had almost decided to turn back at the ridges because of the tricky path but now were very glad that we had pushed on. The carrots and biscuits came out as we started our picnic. Rajaji was adamant that there was water in the vicinity. The rest of us tried to convince him that it was a mirage but then Rajaji does not listen very well. So he set off with Guptaji in the far distance, returned half an hour later affirming that it was a mirage.

We loitered around for some more time then packed up and started for the next destination, Rapar. Guptaji was in the lead and missed the turn from Adesar towards Rapar. He had to be caught up 10 kms ahead and then we corrected ourselves. We were now on state highway and this was also in brilliant condition. However, there were no dhabas to be found all the 40 kms to Rapar.

Rapar turned out to be a very small place and since it was now past 4 pm, no place was serving lunch. Dholavira was 80 kms away. So we ate whatever was available. However, we had spent a good amount of time in Gujarat and were yet to meet the Big Four. These were:

1. Dhokla
2. Khakhra
3. Thepla
4. Phaaphda

At a small eatery we met with the first holy one, Dhokla. It was disappointing. So we had some samosas at a nearby stall and started towards Dholavira. Although the road was again in great condition, our heads were getting sleepy. There were 5 kms long straight stretches on this road, a great place to zip through on faster machines. A power nap was required before making progress.

A funny phenomenon was in progress for the entire duration of the Ride. Whenever our Rajaji entered a petrol pump, he raised two questions. The first was "Paytm hai?". If the answer to that was No, then the second was "ATM hai?". If the answer to that was also No, then this phenomenon would continue over to the next petrol pump. Cash preservation was the need.

A little over an hour later, we were over the Rann of Kutch lake. It was a lake unlike any we had ever seen before. It was waterless and completely white. This long stretch of road takes one over the dried lake to the island of Khadir Bet. The landmass at the other end of the island reached to the Great Rann of Kutch. We had already experienced the vastness of Little Rann and Micro Rann. So we could only imagine what it would be for the Great Rann, the biggest of all. This would be a disappointment later on though. We stopped in the middle of the path for some sunset shots. The white expanse stood around us for miles.

It got dark quite soon as we pulled into the recommended place of Flamingo resort. A Kannada couple got interested on seeing the KA registered motorcycle of BK. We left him to give his "brief" introduction and completed the hotel formalities in the meantime. Dholavira was 25 kms away from here. The manager was a very polite person and recommended seeing the Fossil park after we visited Dholavira. We struck a deal for our stay with meals included and took to our room. Without wasting much time, we enquired about "essentials", imported it and then sat down for much needed break. Continuous riding of 3 days was now taking its toll and we were tired. The "essentials" refreshed us, the dinner energised us. We took a walk outside and Guptaji pointed out the Milky Way. One needs to step out of polluted cities to see the spectacular night sky.

Post-dinner we set off towards the lake yet again to marvel its beauty in the moonlight. We had asked beforehand for the gate to be opened, dragged two of the Bullets out and then started them so as not to disturb the other guests at the resort. We are very polite riders, you see unlike the impression the general public has about Bulleteers.

The moonlight itself was enough to light our path. Unfortunately it was not a full moon night. We had researched earlier and found the full moon would not occur during our entire duration of stay in Gujarat. But still it was quite bright. The whiteness of the place was now also luminescent. There was no path from where we could take our Bullets down to the lake except for a stunt jump of 4 feet that would be bad for the health (and generation) of the stuntman. So we went down into the white on foot. Our feet were partially sinking into the salt pan. A black grime stuck to our shoes from the layer under the white. Now it looked clear that we would not be able to set up a tent on such a terrain. The experience was akin to walking on the moon, save the gravity.

Loitering around for a few minutes we started our way back. On reaching the resort, we found the caretaker waiting for us outside the gate with a lock in his hand. In that state, we quietly made to our rooms. We'll confront him the next day.

Route taken:
(Santalpur - Piprala - Little Rann - Piprala - Adesar - Rapar - Dholavira)

17 Dec 2016:

The next day the caretaker was in his usual jolly mood so we did not raise last night's topic. Notably, he mentioned how Rajaji was the first to wake up and went for a walk. He also mentioned how he mixed up with the locals, well enough to stand for municipal elections. It had been a good stay at this place, with simple but delicious meals.

Now we started for Dholavira, one of the launchpads of human civilisation. Along the way we noticed the path that connected to Khavda on the other side of the island. But that path was closed for now. This resulted in a 300-km diversion we would have to take to reach the other side, skirting the edges of Kutch lake.

On reaching Dholavira, we hired a guide and stared at the marvel of the Citadel of the ancient civilisation. It is a wonder to see ancient structures still standing tall today with their simple engineering while many of the modern structures crumble into dust. It makes one question whether we have really advanced? It took around two hours to go through the site. The guide could have been better as I'm sure there was much more that could be explained/theorised here. The grandest structure was the water conversation system where the path of the surrounding river was diverted and then channelled into three massive reservoirs each acting as a purification stage. However, it was strange to see that there is no further excavation in progress. I'm sure there would be much more to discover in the surrounding areas.

After visiting the museum, we started for Fossil park, 5 kms away with the guide accompanying us. This site is built right on the edge of the Khadir island. So here was another place we could see the vastness of the Kutch lake. The fossil park is a preserver of petrified trees. The guide claimed that the trees here are more than 18 crore years old and that is why have now turned to stone. They were hard as stone, alright, but 18 crores, really? The guide claimed that this has been verified by carbon dating. My India contains such valuable treasures. Why go anywhere else?

We noticed a path down till the Rann and made for it. We walked on the dried salt of the ancient lake bed. It was then that Rajaji suggested to take off our sunglasses. In the bright sun, the whiteness was almost blinding. But it was a spectacular view. For me, this place was the best one of the whole Ride.

We reached back to the Flamingo resort to pick up our luggage and thanked the manager for recommending Fossil park. No matter how much research you put in, a word with the locals is always necessary to find hidden gems. On the way we encountered a large group of Avengers heading the other way. Lots of Thumbs-up were exchanged. This is one attitude I find lacking in most Bullet riders. They should greet riders on other machines too. Most of them don't. The spirit of Riding should be celebrated rather than the machine on which you ride on. Having said that, I still say old cast-iron Bullets are the real tourers, across all sorts of terrains.

For the moment the plan was to stay at Rapar for the night. However, on reaching the place and enquiring at a guest house, the place was found to be unlicensed to permit a stay. We had already been disappointed at Rapar the previous day with the lack of food. So we thought of moving ahead to the next place, Chitrod, 20 kms away. By now it had gone dark. The route looked swell to be taken in the daylight because it consisted of turns with lots of greenery around. Chitrod also did not have any stay options, so we moved on and touched the NH-27 2 kms later. Bhuj was 110 kms away.

Our team huddled together to discuss what to do next. As much as we tried to avoid riding in the night, we had been doing that every day till now. Given the smooth highways, this was no trouble. In the end, it was the ease with which we could procure "essentials" that really swayed the decision in favour of Bhuj. We would be undertaking the entire 110 kms now, it was not expected to take more than two hours. The only caveat was that we would be stopping for dinner on the way.

The going was smooth the next 40 kms but then we turned off the highway at Bhachau and the road turned single. This was not expected. Our progress slowed with traffic increasing, road conditions deteriorating and increasing intensity of oncoming headlights. A stop had to be taken for dinner.

We were tired now. If the road continued like this, reaching Bhuj would be exhausting. But we braved on. Thankfully, the roads improved soon. The worst was behind us. We rejoined the main highway and from there it was a breeze all the way to Bhuj. My earlier assumption about Bhuj was that it would be a small town, just bigger than a village. It turned out to be a big town, with large industries on both sides of the highway. It is the vanes of windmills loaded on long trailers that widens the eyes.

The hunt for a room for the night was a long one at that time. It was already late, around 10 pm. Good thinking on BK's part to have dinner first. Close to the bus stand, we managed to find a room. The leftover "essentials" were finished here as we did not have the energy to have large amounts tonight. The bathroom was leaky though and this resulted in a slight altercation with the hotel authorities. We were now in touristy area. Hospitality took a dive.

Route taken:
(Dholavira - Rapar - Chitrod - Bhachau - Bhuj)

18 Dec 2017:

Today we could ride assured. We had our rooms booked for the night near the White Rann. We encountered the second of the Big Four, Khaakhra, at a sweet shop in the streets of old city. The food quest was 50% complete. Although we had kept the ride distance short for each day, they were getting extended. Today was no different.

All along the way to the Bhirandiara crossing, Harleys could be seen returning to Bhuj. This must have been part of the same group we encountered earlier. Later we learnt that The Western HOG Rally was in progress this weekend with a 750-member strong cohort. We registered for permits full of excitement. Finally we would be heading into the White Rann. We would be riding our Bullets on the great big white expanse of dried salt. But first there were few other places to cover.

First we rode in to the Rann Rajwadi resort close by. We would be entering White Rann the following day. The resort did not have any other guests. This affected our service as the host was not keen on organising cultural program in the night.

After lunch, we headed towards Kalo Dungar, or the Black Mountains. Since it was a Sunday, majority of outside tourists had left. There was a sea of Gujarati tourists. We had now completed the diversion around the Rann of Kutch lake. We stood on the other landmass that was visible from Fossil park. I didn't find Kalo Dungar to be that attractive. There was no black colour to be seen on the so-called "Mountains". We have explored the Mighty Himalayas. We know what "Mountains" are. These were mounds. But there was an interesting point mentioned on a sign board. This was the highest point in Kutch, 485 m above sea level. One gets the idea of the flatness of this region. The only attractive sight was India Bridge, visible far away.

The local tourists were busy taking selfies all around. We did not spend much time here and started the descent and headed towards India Bridge. We had been getting conflicting reports about this location whether it was publicly accessible. We had permits only for White Rann. Thankfully though on reaching the bridge, the BSF guard told us that we could ride over the bridge to the other side, but that's it. Any further and we would need permission from the Resident Commissioner at Bhuj. The Pakistan border is only 80 kms away from this place and so it is a sensitive area.

Guptaji and I are always stuck in such situations. Same thing happened when we visited Longewal check post in Rajasthan. We had missed taking the permits from the nearest major town. But then there is no source where such information is available. Meeting the soldiers always instils a sense of pride in me, and humility. These men stand guard day and night in such adverse conditions, while we in the city fight with each other over trivial things such as overtaking.

During the return ride, Guptaji tested the bone-dry condition of his fuel tank. He managed to reach the nearest petrol pump without pushing. The mileage was astonishing though.

This was going to be our first dry night of the Ride. Having spent 3 lucky days in the dry state is no mean feat. So we didn't mind. However what I did mind was that my co-riders got busy with their cellphones. I did not have network in mine so was left hung out. We complain about this phenomenon in today's young generation but here I was seeing guys from my generation with the addiction. Except for BK though, because he is part of young generation too even though his built is old-school. I retired early.

Route taken:
(Bhuj - Bhirandiara - Kalo Dungar - India Bridge - Bhirandiara)

19 Dec 2016

We were looking forward to enter the White Rann today. This is the area which is highly advertised by the likes of Amitabh Bachchan. "Kuch din to guzariye Gujarat me". Later we found out that we had missed the board declaring "You are now crossing the Tropic of Cancer". Logically speaking, this board should be setup across the latitude, so there would be many places where we can experience crossing an imaginary line. But still, it was an excitement we missed.

There were many resorts on the way to Dhordo, the Tent city. With tourism taking a hit, we could have had a bargain staying at any of these places. At Dhordo, an entire tent city has been built right in the middle of arid ground. So this is where the HOGs stayed. We tried to have a look inside but were stopped by the guards. Entry is allowed only for reserved guests. No, this was not the White Rann. The stay here goes upto 50000 for a 3 nights stay. I could travel to so many places at that price and get a better sense of local culture. Such places are for fancy guests who need luxury. Give them a brief glimpse of culture and they would be pleased.

Now started a trail of disappointments. We rode through the area open to the public where food and handicraft stalls were erected. Beyond this lied the gate to enter the White Rann. BSF was blocking the entry. We were banned from taking our motorcycles beyond this gate. All the tourists had to travel on the state run free buses. The guard told us that usually motorcycles are allowed but owing to VIP movement, entry has been stopped for the past week and the ban will continue to next week too. We complained that if motorcycles are not allowed then why are permits being issued at Bhirandiara in the name of entering White Rann. But when matter comes to VIPs, all logical reasons go to waste.

Guptaji tried very hard by finding out contacts so that somehow we could ride inside if some other higher VIP gave the order. But luck was not on our side. We rode back to the parking lot a kilometer behind and went for the food court. Guptaji was still trying reaching out to his contacts. One of the food stall owners agreed to make the third of the Big Four for us, Thepla. The taste was quite decent, but not excellent.

With no other solution, we had to board the bus to the White Rann. It was a 3 kms ride. The Rann still had lots of water. At the end of 4 kms lies a parking lot where we got dropped off. The last km can be covered on foot, or horse cart or camel cart. This provides employment to the aborigines of this land. We asked if the camels could take us there over the White Rann, but the water was too deep for that. So we opted for our feet.

At the end of the km straight, lies a watch tower. Beyond it lies nothing, just a plain white field extending for miles till the Pakistan border. This was the Great Rann of Kutch. Most of it was still covered with water. This region had received good rains this season. We walked in with our boots on to some distance. The salty water still shows up its colour even today on them. The watch tower constructed here is special as it is built in the form of salt crystals. I was in awe of this structure.

The view of the Rann was a letdown. We had seen grander views at Fossil park and Dholavira. All the hype and advertising around this place and then placing so many restrictions, seemed kind of wasteful. In fact, now we were glad that we could not bring our motorcycles. This place wasn't worth it. Which does make me raise the question, why is Gujarat tourism charging such a hefty amount for the Rann utsav? Is it just the cost of bringing all these artisans and mediocre food vendors to this barren land? If that is so, they are making a neat profit out of it. There are no places where tents are planted on the white surface. Its all just misleading advertising gimmick.

Thoroughly disappointed, we concentrated on our next destination, Lakhpat. But first, Rajaji was eager to try parasailing nearby. This turned out to be another disappointment as they would be starting the activity at 4 PM, a wait of 2 more hours which we found unacceptable and moved on. We had had enough of this place.

Along the way to Hajipir, Guptaji was repeatedly trying to find some alternate access into the Rann, but the ground looked too soft to attempt on our fully loaded Bullets. Had we been without luggage, we would have surely attempted. So we continued on the narrow but excellent road for another 30 kms, reached Hajipir and then got lost. It was Guptaji's gut feeling that made us stop. He had the intuition that we were travelling in the wrong direction. Thankfully on enquiring, we had missed the turn by only 8 kms. Riding back that distance an off-road path connected to the right track.

The road now turned hilly. We were leaving the flat area around the Rann. At several places we had to stop and ask for directions as there were numerous unmarked turns. But before sunset, we were at the gates of Lakhpat Fort. The whole village was nested in between these fort walls. There was no habitat outside. We were now very close to the international border. Stories of "harami nala" abound in this area. They say that this path is used for smuggling but navigating it is very tricky and only the skilled are capable. It is a pain point for the BSF patrolling this area.

The caretaker of the nearby Gurudwara met us at the gates and invited us to stay. Two of us went around the village to look for options. Finding none, we gathered back and took up a room. Dinner was the simple langar of the Gurudwara. Our Rajaji's funny bone gets tickled when around Sikhs and was continuously needling me. There was nothing much to do after the early dinner so we went for a walk around the village. Being a sensitive area, the villagers take it upon themselves also to stop and talk to outsiders. The Fort walls looked interesting for a visit the next morning.

Route taken:
(Bhirandiara - Dhordo - Hajipir - Dayapar - Lakhpat)

20 Dec 2016:

We went around exploring the village inside the Fort walls. From atop, a great big expanse of land was visible and a small BSF check post. There was always caution at the back of our minds whether we were following rules or not as a BSF barrack was close by. We even risked going ahead some distance on the other side of the walls but quickly turned back as Guptaji wasn't feeling alright. We trust his intuitions.

Reaching back to the Gurudwara, we picked up our luggage, had langar and made way for Koteswar. Our research last night showed this as the westernmost point of Indian mainland. We had already covered the southernmost, Kanyakumari. The northernmost wasn't accessible. So covering the westernmost provided a great incentive. As we parked here, on came loudspeakers blaring the song "Naino me sapna". I couldn't figure out the reason of this song outside temple premises but it prompted Guptaji and Rajaji to dance.

The Koteswar Mahadev temple stood gallantly along the coast. However, the actual westernmost point was blocked by a BSF check point. A distance of 10 m separated us, but we were content. That leaves only the easternmost, Kibithu to be covered now and our quest would be complete.

This also reminds me that the fourth of the Big Four mentioned earlier, Phaaphda, was still eluding us. The manager at Flamingo, Dholavira had recommended visiting Mandvi beach. Since Fossil Park had been a worthwhile visit, we added Mandvi into our itinerary. We had time on our side. The ride was smooth all the way and we rode on right on the sand of the beach. We had made it in time for sunset.

After a relaxed sunset viewing, we started looking for a place to stay and landed at Radhe motel. A deal was struck, then began a hunt for "essentials". It had been two dry nights now. We paid a lot for procurement tonight. An Irani hotel was located where we could have non-veg food. That had been a while too. Although the meals we had had till now were tasty, they had been vegan. We need meat for survival. We also procured the last of the Big Four here - Phaaphda. The food quest was complete.

Route taken:
(Lakhpat - Koteswar - Mandvi)

21 Dec 2016:

We shortlisted on two of the nearby places to explore today. The first was Vijay Vilas Palace, 5 kms away. It stood tall and grand in the middle of forested area. For Indians, it is best remembered as the place where "Hum dil de chuke sanam" was shot. The lifestyle of the king was well in view for the visitors to see.

The next visit was to ship-making yard. This was an unusual sight to see. Huge pieces of logs are being gathered and aligned to make the structure of the ship, all done by hand. They said it takes 2-3 years to make one. Old school technology that has stood the test of time.

By now, we were tired of Gujarat. Despite all the nice people and excellent roads, we found our freedom curtailed here. That is why our aim was to say goodbye to this state today. BK will still have to spend another couple of days on his way to Pune. I also suspect he was a little cross as we did not visited his sought-after place, Mundra. For the rest of us, Abu Road was the destination, 450 kms away.

We parted after having lunch near the Kandla Port junction. Hopefully we'll cover the easternmost point of India together in 2017. From here on it was a dash to the border. We arrived at the same guest house we had stopped at earlier. Then went to pick up dinner at the same place too.

It had grown cold now. But it was quite a relief to drink openly after so long. This time around too, I dropped to sleep without having dinner as my stomach grew upset. Rajaji and Guptaji could not finish the biryani too. It hurts to let such tasteful food go to waste, but we were helpless.

Route taken:
(Mandvi - Abu Road)

22 Dec 2016:

While coming to Gujarat, we had made it to Abu Road in a day. We didn't plan the same for the return. Although 25th was included as a rest day, this time we had managed to add in another rest day. What we did not know that we would still get tired.

On the way back we had planned to revisit Om Banna Temple at Pali. This would be a first time visit for Rajaji and a second for Guptaji and me. We left Abu Road together. I reached Pali turn after crossing Sirohi and Sumerpur. Guptaji was calling to ask about my whereabouts. He was in the lead and had missed the turn to Sirohi, heading to Udaipur instead. It took nearly two hours to re-unite and then we headed to Bullet Baba shrine together.

There was no carnival around this time. That takes place on 3rd Dec and Guptaji and I were present at that time in 2015. This time the mood was solemn. We also noticed there wasn't the usual offering of Royal Stag. On asking around, we came to know that this week would be dry as Om Banna's father had passed away. A week long mourning was in progress. Guptaji and I now have double minds on revisiting this place. We always tend to come here in times of mourning.

Then came a moment of rage. We noticed that different Bullet clubs had pasted their stickers on the glass surrounding the motorcycle at the shrine. We found it outrageous. It is akin to love messages that are written on old forts and structures. So all you Bullet clubs are also guilty of desecrating heritage. Our club would never do this. We don't use holy places as advertising slots.

Lunch was at the place opposite the shrine. By now it had got quite late. The sun set soon and the darkness brought cold with it. Along the way we came up with the idea of stopping at Ajmer for the night. Guptaji had the bright idea of visiting the dargah. We all followed. It would be a first for me, despite having crossed this highway numerous times.

It had got pretty late till we settled on a room. Rajaji was not in the mood to go out. Dinner was delivered to his room. Guptaji and I headed to the dargah. The walk through the narrow bylanes ended in the open area of the dargah. The main shrine was closed, but qawali was in progress in the brightly lit courtyard. We were more interested in the outside event anyway. So just sat down there enjoying the atmosphere. They say the program goes on till 2 am in the night. Our day's journey had worn us out and we spent 30 minutes in that place. It did not completely refresh us, but did take some of the tiredness away.

For dinner, the only open place nearby at that hour was the railway station. After that it was lights out.

Route taken:
(Abu Road - Sirohi - Pali - Ajmer)

23 Dec 2016:

The Last Day of the Ride. Less than 400 kms to go. It was an easy ride all the way. However, it had grown quite warm in the day. Some beer at Shahabad was refreshing. Being a Friday night, we encountered traffic on entering Gurgaon. It was after 6 PM now. Our other frequent rider, Ranaji, met us at Machan to mark the completion of the Ride.

We were disappointed by Gujarat tourism. The area that is highly marketed as the attraction, does not have tents on the white surface as shown in the ads. It is not possible to put up tents on that surface given the slimy underside. The White Rann is a totally restricted area. The VIP movement prevented us from taking the motorcycles despite having permits. This is what happens when commercialism takes over. What we did enjoy were Dholavira, Fossil park, Lakhpat and India bridge. Such chained freedom will prevent us from revisiting the state though.

Total Ride distance covered: 3400 kms approx.

Looking forward to covering another untouched state now. Until then,
JAI BoP !!!

Bulls on Parade to Sankri

The Sankri Samurais

1,2,3 Oct 2016

While most of our rides are well-planned in advance in terms of dates and location, this one wasn't so. The dates were ready but we were still searching for a location. The vital clause was that it has to be in the hills. Nilu was making a comeback to Riding and when he is concerned, it has to be a mountain ride. After some digging around and some arguments later, we finalised on Sankri. A quiet hamlet in the middle of a sanctuary. The reality was different but more on that later. 

Oct 1, 2016: 

So early that morning, I reached the designated landfill spot at 4:05 AM, late by 5 mins. Ankit arrived soon. Then there was the wait for Nilu to arrive. He arrived 40 minutes later complaining yet again of sleep-deprivation. Only this time the shortage spanned more than 24 hours. The trio of our ride was the same as the Weekend Budher Ride, only the rider of the KTM was different. To my delight Ankit was the sole smoker in the group which meant that I would not be held up waiting for others to finish their fag.

Nilutpal Hazarika - KTM Duke 390

Ankit Gupta - Royal Enfield Classic 350

Diptinder Singh Chhabra - Royal Enfield Electra 4S

We set off nearly at 5 AM. This was later than our intended start. We had a long distance to go, 460 kms as per Google Maps. But that distance could turn out to be longer than indicated by the Maps, as we have seen in many of our past rides. Since the trio of machines was the same, it was only logical that we chose the same spot for breakfast, just before Karnal. Ankit was in a relief from his gas problem this time around. The weather was slightly hazy and we still could not see the sun despite past sunrise time. It was during breakfast that Nilu came up with "the gesture" that would be a standard reply throughout this ride.

As we turned towards the state highways at Karnal and headed to Yamunanagar, it turned foggy. This was funny as while the surroundings looked like those in winters, the temperature was warm. The traffic was hot, as we encountered lots of stupid drivers on the single road. We had to get off the road a couple of times as oncoming vehicles didn't leave any room on the road. This section needed to be crossed as early as possible. 

Comfort was granted only after crossing Jagadhari on the broad road towards Paonta Sahib. Here again, Ankit and I were on the lookout of stalls serving strawberry shake but were left disappointed again. It seems the vendors have packed up their business here. We reached Kalesar even before 9 AM. During the Budher Ride, we had reached here at 10:30 AM having left Delhi earlier. This was a surprise. So we took it easy and stopped at the first theka I know of just after crossing the sanctuary gate. Nilu was taken a little aback as to why we would opt for beer at 9 AM. Why not?

The Duke needed a refill at Paonta Sahib and I filled up too so that I wouldn't have to do so again till our destination. Ankit powered with his K&N did not need to, at all. From Kalsi, the hill section started and I deliberately took the road where there were less culverts. This road is narrow but smooth. And it belonged to us at that time, with no other traffic. The isolation was spellbinding.

We made the most of the conditions with the Yamuna river flowing besides with clear water until stopped by a landslide. There was a bulldozer working to clear the path. It managed to pound enough of the earth so that our motorcycles could make it across. A sense of adventure was added to our Ride. 

As we neared Nainbagh, Ankit and I were excited to encounter a tall waterfall we had noticed on our Nagtibba Ride. This time we were determined to take a dip. Given the good year of monsoons, many other waterfalls were encountered, but we did not stop at any of them. When we reached our intended one, there was a large herd of water buffaloes occupying its base. Now don't blame me for being racist towards blacks, but I cannot share my bath with a buffalo. We were forced to ride on.

By now it was close to noon and we stopped for lunch with 40 kms remaining to Barkot. Spicy  and hot vegetarian food was served. Meat was to elude us these 2 days. The cook informed us that our destination was 70 kms away. This resulted in a false claim. 

We turned off the NH-507 20 kms before Barkot towards Purola from Naugaon. The initial 5 kms of road was in bad condition. Then it turned even more brilliant than the NH. The Duke needed another refill at Purola. On checking the map, our destination was found to be 60 kms away. Nilu urged me to call up the hotel where we were putting up to arrange for chicken for dinner. I did so reluctantly. The manager at the hotel was also calm and said we could order on reaching, there would not be an issue. We took him at his word which turned out to be a mistake. The good news was that we would be crossing Mori on our way. Earlier in 2016, we had planned a ride to this place which got cancelled due to non-participation. We would cover this place now. Looking at the present condition of the road Ankit remarked that we could easily reach Sankri by 6 PM. It is a mistake to utter such words. 

Nilu stopped suddenly to give a lift to school kids. The new parent gives special attention to children now. Mori was a fantastic place. It was built like a fairy-tale village. It would be worth another visit. But for now, we needed to get to Sankri and there were 24 kms more to go. At Mori, the phones stopped working as only BSNL network was available. The remaining distance was learnt to be rough. Still, we were hopeful of reaching before darkness. We didn't. 

A forest department check point stood in the way. We were entering Govind Pashu Vihar National Park. Many treks are conducted in this region. From here on, tarmac disappeared. It was all pebbles and stones. Nilu had recently changes the Duke's rear tyre and it lost quite a bit of its early life on this stretch owing to the soft compound. He was riding super cautiously. To top it all, it had grown dark. 

We reached the end at 6:30 PM, half an hour behind Ankit's prediction. The Hotel Swargrohini was almost full. A large group of trekkers occupied it. Sankri is the starting point for many treks, including Har-ki-Dun. We hadn't been that wise selecting it as a destination. We selected a room on the terrace, put in our stuff and enquired about chicken. To our disappointment, the meat shop in the town had closed by now, the exact reason why we had called earlier. The manager wasn't very co-operating. The next best thing to be had was egg curry. 

Nilu managed to convince the manager to lend him his phone so that he could notify his family of his whereabouts. As soon as he was finished, the manager took his phone back without giving me and Ankit a chance to use it. We had tried, but signal was erratic so even the message didn't go through. We didn't complain and sat down on the terrace with whiskey. But we had to endure even more adjustment as the trekker group came out for their briefing and dinner. So we were stuck inside our room. Extra bed couldn't be provided but the bed looked large enough to accommodate us three. 

The manager again came to our door requesting us not to be very loud. We were not. It is understandable from his point of view also as Delhi tourists do have that kind of reputation. Still we were a patient lot. As long as we had our drinks and companionship, we didn't mind. The BBB was on. The ride was also named during this time by Ankit. Samurais. When the group outside were finished, we took the terrace. They would be leaving early the next morning so they had to retire early. We had time on our hands. It had been a long ride. Nilu was having little alcohol as usual. "The gesture" was an exclusive topic. This would keep us entertained for the rest of the Ride and also beyond. After the drinks our dinner was laid out and we gulped on it.

As we prepared to crash down, we hadn't been provided with extra blanket and pillow. We didn't have the strength anymore to go to the manager now and just passed out.

(Route taken: Delhi - Paonta Sahib - Kalsi - Naugaon - Mori - Sankri)

Oct 2, 2016:

Happy Gandhi Jayanti.
A National Holiday on a Sunday wouldn't be a cheering thought for many. But had it been on a Monday or Friday, this place would've been chaotic. So we welcomed it. I woke up with a hangover, as usual. Breakfast was again imported from last night's eatery. We asked the locals on which one was the smallest trek. Juda ka taal was suggested, 3 kms away. It was finalised.

So we set off on the trek taking a local guide along. It would have been an interesting conversation with the guide but we could not understand more than half of what he spoke. The gap widened when he took out his special smokes. Now he was even more talkative and even less understandable.

It was slow going for our lot. We are still trying to get into trekking. This route was beautiful.

The lake did not get nearer as we painstakingly reached the 3 kms mark. Distance in the mountains cannot be taken for sure. It is measured in hours rather than kms. We had spent more than 2 hours and roughly 4 kms when we reached a meadow. Our guide told us that this was the halfway mark. We had been taken for a ride again. So we rested for a while and decided to return from this spot. We had to cover the distance to Mori today itself so that the off-road section could be avoided the next day. Moreover, Nilu had let loose the news that he needed to get to his home by 6 PM to initiate a conference call. The others didn't appreciate this news. When we come on a Ride we forget our mundane city lives for the entire duration. I'm sure he didn't take the responsibility willingly, but there are ways around it.

After a lot of "gestures" and soothing tracks we started on the way back. Nilu was in a hurry during the descent. He wanted to cover as much distance as he could today. Unwillingly, we followed. On the return it started to rain too. After reaching Sankri, the meat shop was again found to be closed. So again egg curry had to be ordered. While the lunch was being prepared, we packed our bags ready to leave. But the cook took her own sweet time. The end result was delicious.

As we set off on our machines, it again started to rain. It was as if the weather gods were tracking our movements and let loose the water whenever our travel commenced. The off-road section was not perceived as bad this time mainly because we were fresh and it was daylight. We reached Mori by 5 PM and were stopped at a police checkpoint to check our papers. All were in order. Knowing the section of the road ahead was in excellent condition, we carried on towards Purola. But with the rain clouds, it grew dark soon. This section was traversed in darkness. We couldn't enjoy it fully. The oncoming headlights didn't help.

The rain stopped as we reached Purola and we started to hunt around for a room. Nilu was in the mood to carry on, but with the rains we had to stop. We boarded in at a cheap guest house that was located right next to a non-veg dhaba and had gated parking. It had been a while since we had meat. Meat was ordered as snacks as well as the main course. The hospitality in this small guest house was infinitely more generous than in the fancy Hotel Swargrohini at Sankri. We discussed on the options that Nilu could take for his conference call but without result. It had to be his way.

The Guest House was located right next to the river. The sounds of the flowing water acted as a lullaby to put us to sleep.

Oct 3, 2016:

The day of the return journey and Nilu grew pushy. We left before 9 AM. 9 hours was calculated as sufficient to cover the distance. The first break was taken just before Nainbagh as I was missing out on having Maggi in the hills. It is customary when in the mountains. Somehow it tastes different at altitudes.

A short break at the Nainbagh waterfall and we kept on moving. We didn't take much stops after that but still by the time we stopped for lunch after crossing Kalesar, it was 2 PM. 200 kms remained till Delhi. Nilu left after a quick lunch. He made a dash towards his home. Now Ankit and I could take it easy.

At Yamunanagar, Ankit started facing disc brake issues. We stopped at the nearby RE dealership. Actually I stopped there so that in case any new parts were required, they would be available. True to their nature the mechanics started on with their recommendations - changing the cylinder and what not. Ankit ignored all of these and just got the oil topped up and the brakes started working perfectly again.

Moving on, it started to get very hot. Beer was required now. But being on NH-1, all the thekas around the highways were shifted. However, I remembered seeing a board somewhere along the NH-1 on my last ride and sure enough located the theka just off the highway. This would surely be our regular spot now on the return journey. The theka supervisor also suggested a closed shop nearby where we could enjoy our beer in peace. A couple of Tauus also came by and were gone before we even had two gulps of our bottles. Sunset time is alcohol time. Throughout the return wherever we were asked about our place of journey, Sankri, it drew a blank. BoP is quite used to it now. We have few more such places in our list to be covered next year.

We reached the landfill site just before 8 PM and I reached my place by 9:30 PM. Lately we have been reaching home in good time which is very unlike our pattern. Things might get back to normal now that we have located an NH-1 theka. The next Ride will be the Ninth Anniversary Ride in December this time to the Rann of Kutch, a place I've been raring to go for years. I need to feel that dwarfness in the vast open barren landscape. Until then,

JAI BoP!!!

Chant for Behemoth

Dear Brothers of Behemoth,

Thank you so much for coming to India. Your concert was worth all the scraping and borrowing I had to do to attend it coming from Delhi. Given the earlier cancellation of the Bangalore event there was nervousness around this one too. All blown to smithereens by Behemoth.

1. Behemoth chose to come to India in their prime. Usually in India we get mainstream bands when they get old. 
2. A limited number of tickets, 1500 did not do you justice. It was a very small venue. But Behemoth did not let that affect their performance. The show was with the same energy that would've been in a stadium. The fans felt special and would be eternally grateful to the band for it. 
3. Many fans were initially wary that given the small audience and stage, we would not be treated to the full fledged costume and corpse paint. Behemoth did not disappoint, at all. Few questions also arose whether Inferno will bless us with his presence. The entire army was there to ravage. 
4. We could feel the sonic spell that would explode as the band started to take stage. Just seeing Nergal, Orion, Seth and Inferno in the flesh waiting for their assault, we knew this performance would be the best to be witnessed. I must say, Orion looked the most vicious.
5. The sound mix was not quite right in the beginning, for the first four tracks. I think Nergal sensed it too and got it corrected, for what followed was a blizzard of metal waves and we allowed ourselves to drown in it.
6. To play The Satanist album in its entirety was very unexpected, that too without a pause. The tremendous rush to the head was invigorating. If that wasn't enough it was followed by a chosen few that were very appropriate, varying in pace, ending with the pinnacle, Chant for Eskathon 2000. The lust for more tracks would never have been fulfilled even if they had played all night. But absolutely no cause for complaint. 
7. After the end, another blessing came with Seth's signature plectrum. My most precious possession. 

The above are just words. What I felt cannot be expressed in words. I sure hope to see you again in my country.

Bulls on Parade to Janjehli

The Janjehli Jaguars

4-6 Sep 2016

Rains are troublesome in the hills. At the same time they are the greenest. So, when monsoons reached their end, we wasted no time in getting back into the Himalayas. We consisted of:

Vikas Garg - Royal Enfield Himalayan
Diptinder Singh Chhabra - Royal Enfield Electra 4S

The Ride offered a great testing opportunity for the Himalayan. So half of my mind was continuously observing it. Would it be the worthy successor to my ageing Electra? Vikas was also eager to test it on a long ride.

The destination Janjehli was considered many times but wasn't attempted yet because it was 500+ kms away. But recently we have been pushing the envelope. So, this time we decided, why not? Also, since attendance has been consistently low, we do not try to lessen the distance to accommodate more riders. Google Maps showed the distance to be 510 kms from Leisure Valley Park, Gurgaon. We have been swindled many times by Maps, but it's still the place to check for distances. 

3rd Sep 2016:

We had planned to reach the landfill site by 4 AM. I had to drop off my cousin, Anmol at Karnal. We met at the Delhi-Gurgaon border at 3:30 AM. Straightaway there were admirations thrown at the Himalayan. The dashboard was well lit up and provided good amount of information. The two trip meters is a nice touch, but a limit to 1000 kms on a tourer is not done. We had a good amount of distance to cover, so we put the complements on hold and resumed our journey. The air was cool with the recent rains.

We rode non-stop to Anmol's place, dropped him off and covered another 25 kms to stop at a dhaba. The sun was just starting to rise. Usually one sees many other riders along the way too on weekends. But due to this early hour, we did not see any. Soon as the thought arose, in came two other bikes, Avenger and Gixxer, on their way to Spiti. Their destination for the day was Rampur. Well they had surely left from Delhi at a good time. 

The discussion then quickly jumped back to the Himalayan. It was a comfortable cruiser. The long travel of the front forks showed great off-road characteristics. The speed was right now restricted to 80. 

We didn't hog much and were quickly on our way again, wishing a safe ride to the Spiti-riders. Since there were only two of us, there was less time spent on breaks too. Vikas was also considerate about his smoking breaks, finishing them before we got ready, unlike another of my co-rider who deliberately starts when we are ready to depart.

The next stop was at Decathlon, Zirakpur. Vikas needed new boots. We reached the store at 8:30 AM. There was half an hour wait for the store to open. This must be a first for us, shopping on the way to the destination. We had time on our side, for the time being.

In another half an hour we were in the hills. For a Saturday, there was very less traffic. It can also be attributed to the early hours. The crowd from Punjab and Haryana must be waking up and starting to make their way to Shimla for their weekend break.

We paused for a water and maggi break before Solan. A large group of Scorpios, Thars and XUVs was noticed. We later found out they were part of Mahindra road trip. The two riders we had met earlier heading towards Spiti were also seen passing. Due to a healthy monsoon, the surrounding hills were lush green. We soaked in the sights.

The road to Solan is not that good anymore. We used to enjoy sliding the footpegs here, but now couldn't due to potholes. Very unpredictable. We passed Solan distillery, the oldest one Estd. 1855. Now, I have theorised that this distillery has played a role in the 1857 uprising against the Britishers. Its not such a wild theory when given some thought. Until the distillery was established, there was only country liquor. This distillery enabled mass production. Allow two years for national distribution. Obviously the major consumer was the military. Now imagine Mangal Pandey (Not Aamir Khan) tasting Old Monk. The mind brightens as you start thinking about your actions. Then you pour more thought on the cartridges, the greasy layer over it and then...BOOM, the uprising. Or maybe, it was just so that they could take over the English-run distilleries, acquire Old Monk. The exact reasons for the revolt are still not clear. I'm just adding in another possibility.

(I hereby copyright the above theory calling it Monk-al Pandey. If ever it came true, I should be recognised as the originator. And just in case,
Disclaimer: This theory does not mean any disrespect to our freedom fighters or religion, in any manner.)

The Shimla bypass has now become a long and busy stretch. It's really difficult to tell whether the bypass saves any time or not. It took a good amount of time to reach the other side of Dhalli tunnel. Nearing Khufri however, the weather improved. Clouds came on the roads. We stopped by a theka to have some beer. Since no light beer was available, we had to opt for Thunderbolt Super Strong. It was super strong for sure. A group of college students were tipsy at the neighbouring table along with their Madam. We were not lucky to have such teachers in our time. But later when we thought more about it, it was for the better. These students will spend their parents' hard earned money on Madam with no fruitful gain. At least we spent the money on ourselves.

Moving on, as per the maps, the distance to our destination showed to be 120 kms. We were hopeful of covering this distance within 5 hours with a lunch break. It seemed possible to reach the destination before dark. A quick lunch at Matiana and fuel-up at Narkanda and we continued on NH-5. Rampur came closer and closer. The last time we had been on this route was way back in June 2009 during the Jalori Juggernauts ride, one of our bests. Earlier we had thought that the distance to Janjehli would be more or less the same as Rampur. When we reached the turn towards Ani at Luhri and enquired, it was revealed that our destination was 70 kms away. On the other hand, Rampur was just 30 kms away. The time was already close to 6 PM. The sun would be setting soon. Moreover we were warned that the last 12 kms would be very rough. Google Maps had taken us for a ride again.

We didn't have a choice but to move on. There was no place available to stay. After Ani, we left the Jalori route and only now started a road stretch we had not ventured on earlier. One realises the extent of his travel when an undiscovered stretch of road starts after 450 kms. The road turned narrow but was in good condition. We preferred this road over the wide and broken Shimla road. We were told to follow the road to Chhatri which we did behind a leading Bolero. Apple season was in its bloom and most of the vehicles and godowns were bursting with freshly plucked apples. However, in the darkness we failed to notice the turn towards Chhatri and kept on climbing the road after Shwaarr. Google maps do not even have this road. Vikas was slightly worried about the Himalayan's fixed headlight, but its spread is good. So it wasn't a problem. After 5 kms, we reached a fork in the road unsure of which direction to take. The Bolero we had overtaken 10 mins back came ahead to meet us. He pointed us in the right direction and we made our way back from the mis-navigation. Well, some amount was bound to happen, its all part and parcel of a ride.

We asked at Shwaarr if there is a place to stay nearby. We had 40 more kms to cover and we were not sure that even if we reached Janjehli any place would be open, and even if we chanced on one, anything would be provided to eat. So we decided to rest up for the night at the nearest available place which was only found at Chhatri. Most of the shops had closed up by the time we reached, beyond 9 PM except for the wine shop where some men were seen rushing to. We went up to the PWD rest house, but there was no room available there. On returning to the bus stand, checked out one very closed and confined place and the other some distance away, but roomier. We opted for the latter. The owner was very insistent on advance payment, the reason being that the wine shop was about to close and he needed to get topped up. We paid him and returned to the dhaba to have food. While the food was being prepared, a couple of Old Monk pegs were downed. This was our mini-BBB for the night. A simple meal later and exhausted from the long haul, we retired for the night.

(Route taken: Gurgaon - Ambala - Shimla - Narkanda - Luhri - Chhatri)

4th Sep 2016:

Vikas woke up very early and went to his Himalayan. He cleaned it up and tightened a few bolts, a fact I found strange for a brand new motorcycle which is made for the offroad. We went for breakfast at the same dhaba to have some very oily parathas with milky curd. We were anxious to reach our destination and left early.

The 25 kms stretch that separated us was rough to a very high degree. But the Himalayan didn't have any problems. This was the surface it was specially built for. It handled it with ease while I crawled along. There were water crossings, no asphalt surface, bouncy rocks that tested the travel of the front forks numerous times. Clunking we carried on as the road was ascending all along. We were enjoying this stretch to the full. Thankfully, we did not cover it in the dark or else we would have been completely lost with no one around to guide us. Here also we reached a fork where some helpful locals guided us in the right direction.

With 7 kms to go the road started descending and then asphalt appeared. The road turned very smooth now and we covered the distance quickly. Janjehli was right in a valley complete with a stream running through the middle. It would have been a paradise staying here. There are large meadows that serve as camping grounds. But tourist matters pressed us and we opted to go to Shikari Devi temple in a taxi. Vikas used his negotiating skills to strike a deal. The temple is situated at a height 1 km above the town center, to be covered by a distance spanning 16 kms. So the stretch was quite steep. When requested, the driver stopped at an apple warehouse and a passing pickup and sourced some apples for us to taste. They were sweet and juicy alright, but we have gotten much used to the synthetic taste available in our metros now. They were useful in keeping the ears from getting air-locked though, as per Vikas. The higher we climbed, the tougher the road got. The car was moving in first gear throughout. We could have ridden our motorcycles, but at that time just wanted to relax. We appreciate our age and fitness now. The 540 kms covered the last day was adventurous enough.

It was a good thing we relaxed too because when we reached the top, a flight of 500 stairs led to the top where the Shikari Devi temple stood. This information was revealed by the cab driver after reaching the spot. What an interesting surprise. This temple has quite a following in the surrounding area and beyond. We warmed up and started the ascent, only to stop 3 minutes later, panting. Yes, we had made it past 2 minutes climb. At the same time, a group of ladies had started and they were heading comfortably up the stairs. They did not stop for one instant. The elderly amongst them did, once or twice, smiling at our apathy. They were our nearest competitor. Ultimately, we also reached the top.

The temple is located on a very high peak. If it wasn't for the clouds, there was a fantastic view all around. Our cab driver had also joined us up the steps. He pointed out the nearby Forest Rest House, looked very interesting for a night stay.

This temple is famous for being roofless. Legend has it that it never snows inside the temple even when the surroundings are entirely covered with snow. We paid our respects then came out to admire the view and rest our tired limbs. The panoramic view of mountain peaks all around has a soothing effect on worn bodies.

The descent was quick. The driver recommended the Mandi route for our return. We stopped at a nearby dhaba for lunch. It had been quite a while since we had non-veg. Fresh whole chickens had just arrived at the dhaba. Within 15 minutes, the dish was prepared and served. It tasted well for such a quick preparation.

After the meal, we stopped by briefly at Pandav Shila, 2 kms from Janjehli to see the miracle of a huge boulder that can be moved with the little finger. The boulder was huge placed over another stone and it did move. It gives a feeling of super strength. Shaktiman.

Mandi was 75 kms away. But the road was excellent throughout. Had we taken this route while coming to Janjehli, we would have reached before sunset. Google Maps prescribe the Shimla route, but that is Wrong. The road turned plain 15 kms before Mandi and that is when we had the chance to open the throttles. But on reaching Mandi, we found that we were now travelling towards Manali, 120 kms away. Although the milestones did look attractive, we forced ourselves back the way towards Sundernagar. The misnavigation had costed us 20 kms extra, but they were covered in high speed. While crossing Sundernagar it was noticed that the place is still as "sunder" as we had encountered on our earlier visits. A canal runs through the middle of the town.

We decided to halt early for the night but at least cross the bad patch after Sundernagar. We needed a good night's sleep. It was right on this bad patch that we were struck by a brief bout of rain. After crossing the bad patch, we halted at the first highway hotel. The rooms were decent and a deal was struck. Bilaspur was 30 kms away from this point.

A solo rider was having his meal quietly in the restaurant. He was on a month long vacation between jobs. It seems that is the only way one can have a long vacation. Wonder when we would get the chance. We wished him a safe ride as he carried on towards Chandigarh.

The hotel owner was indifferent to our visit at first. Later we learnt that this was deliberate. They first check out the tone of voice of the guest. Mine was polite and on learning that we were on a ride specifically to Janjehli, he instantly warmed up. One can't really blame them for being cautious given that they do face certain rowdy clients too. He told us very few travellers headed in the direction of Janjehli and also told us two more spots that we would find interesting, Barot and Tirthan Valley. More undiscovered spots added to our depleting list. The new DSP of Mandi had ordered billboards to be set up displaying the tourism potential of his district. There is so much more to Himachal then Shimla and Manali.

We were quite tired from our long spells of riding for two days. Sleep would come early but first we had the task of finishing the Old Monk. It has been a curse in our past few rides that an Old Monk bottle would arrive back at the source unfinished. We ordered snacks to be brought up into the room. The windows were opened as it started to rain heavily. The food was not very good. We would need to organise a foodie trip once we get back to refresh our taste buds.

Since both of us are not big talkers and Vikas was already settling down to sleep, on came the TV. Rowdy Rathore was on. The Old Monk made it enjoyable somehow. But alas, the rum went unfinished tonight also.

(Route taken: Chhatri - Janjehli - Mandi - Sundernagar)

5th Sep 2016:

I had a long sleep. Vikas was up early again and tending to the Himalayan. No bolt-tightening this time. The weather was clear. It would be hot when we get to the plains. After breakfast, we got ready to leave by 9:30 AM. We had calculated that it would take 12 hours to reach our homes. The timing looked right but we were actually off the target.

There were little stops to take. The road to Bilaspur was good and traffic was light. We got through the city with little trouble. I do not remember this city this way. Usually it is very crowded with numerous cement trucks moving to the ACC factory at Barmana. We did forcibly stop before Swarghat as the hills would end soon and from here on, the heat would be dehydrating. Many riders were heading towards Manali-Leh at this time. The comforting Thumbs-ups and Vs were encouraging at both sides.

As we got out of the hills, much of the road under construction till Kiratpur Sahib is now complete. We again had to stop before Ropar as the endless droning on smooth highways was causing drowsiness. We took the smart decision of wiping out this drowsiness by having lassi. When in Punjab, one has to have lassi.

Reaching Kharar at noon, we were thrown head first into traffic and heat. The stops at traffic lights were most excruciating. Crossing Banur, we were on the lookout for some refreshing beer, but there was none to be found. It was only a short stretch and then we would be in Haryana where thekas would certainly not be found besides the highway. Time ran out for us as we crossed the state border. There is a business potential for a wine shop on the stretch between Banur and Shambhu border to whoever is listening. We certainly would be regular visitors.

Now we were on NH-1. This is home turf where we can ride endlessly at any time of the day. Vikas took it too seriously and went on crossing Ambala, then Shahabad, then Kurukshetra without stopping. He wanted to get home before 8 pm. I was dreading the traffic mess that would hit us all the way from Delhi border to our homes if we touch at 6 pm. We decided to take our final halt at Karnal Lake.

It had been ages since I had stopped here, decades in the case of Vikas. The beer was quite refreshing. The service was not. We had ordered dry lemon chicken, boneless for snacks. The waiter brought lemon chicken gravy with bone. When complained he took the dish back and returned. It was the same dish with gravy and bones removed by hand. We plainly asked him to take it back again. This time without any replacement. When age-old waiters are still present at government posts, what is the level of service one can expect. It would again be ages if we ever stop here again. Not to waste more time by stopping for lunch again, we opted for the plain veg buffet, finished quickly and were on our way again.

The only decent meal we had had on this Ride was at Janjehli that was cooked in 15 mins and served with master hospitality. We did not encounter much of the traffic mess I was dreading all along the way and were at the Delhi-Gurgaon border at 7 pm. 400 kms covered in less than 10 hours, 80 of which had been in hills. This wasn't expected. So we hung around for a while wasting time. In the old days we used to wish farewell over a pint of beer. Today we did so over paneer patties. We were in our homes before 8 pm.

At the end of the Ride, the Himalayan came out to be a fantastic tourer. Vikas did not complain of any sort of body ache while I was discomforted on my trusted old steed. Mileage wasn't an issue as well. It provided 30+ km/l with a 15-litre tank. Agreed that he was on an 80km/h speed limit, but that figure is not bad. It performed very well off the road and is a night rider too. However, certain quality issues still niggle and those are the ones putting me off right now. Long term reliability remains to be seen. The "Himalayan" is a big name to live upto. I hope RE is able to sort these issues out for good.

As for Rides, Anniversary month is coming up. An Annual Long Ride is in the offing. Until then,

JAI BoP!!!