WCR 1117

17^th Nov 2014: Kanyakumari to Rameswaram:

We did wake up very early. This was a sight no one could afford to miss. The coast is a busy one at this time of the day. The sun is the driving force of this town. We managed to squeeze through the crowd and reached a fairly empty spot and waited. The reason why it was empty was soon clear. The sun came up from behind the Rock Memorial. To our solace, clouds again covered the horizon. One must be very lucky to catch sunrise/sunset on a clear morning/evening here. As soon as the first rays shone, conches began to blow in the nearby temples.

The sight of rising sun above the Rock Memorial was a tranquil one. The Vedic Gurus must have got something right. There is certainly some different energy in the rays of the rising sun. We soaked in the light.

We observed a large group wearing black robes. On enquiring, it was learnt that they live one month of their life in hermitage having none of the modern pleasures. Some do it every year. When the rituals were over the nearby market started to open. We quickly went to have motorcycle line-up photos clicked as we had to cover 320 kms to Rameswaram today. A rainbow provided the right backdrop for the pics.

A series of pics later at the end point of highway we returned to pick up our luggage. We didn’t know what to expect from the roads in Tamil Nadu, so to avoid any confusion in the interior towns, we decided to take the hotel manager’s advice and go via Madurai. It also ensured that we stayed with BoP Bangalore longer as they would take the same road back to Bangalore.

It turned out to be a wise decision. We were on a six-lane expressway surrounded by windmills. Whatever frustration we had riding on Dread’s roads, Tamil Nadu made up for it. It was windy enough to make us clench the handlebars. No wonder the wind farms continued for a long distance. We stopped for breakfast after covering a quick 100 kms.

The only drawback of fantastic roads is that it makes you drowsy. The lack of sleep was catching up with all of us. Breakfast of masala dosa took away some of it. We left the dhaba and had just filled up petrol when a commuter came and told us that we had left a bag behind. Rohit, Zaheer and I were the tail-enders so I went the 5 kms back to the dhaba. The bag belonged to Satish. The man insisted me to check the contents before leaving. Such honesty is bewildering. Satish had an earful when we caught up with him.

Continuing on the drowsiness was getting too much. It was multiplied as we were following Varun. He was on run-in speed. At a distance of 62 kms from Madurai, we just couldn’t move on further and stopped. There’s no sense in riding in that condition. One wouldn’t even know when the effect overpowers and control would be lost. We laid out by the side of the road in some shade and dozed off. 

Those two short minutes were more than a power nap. It was a nuclear nap. Within 5 mins, we were back on our feet and ready to ride at least 300 kms more.

On regrouping 20 kms later, we needed to split up. The turn to Rameswaram was right ahead. The cashiers for the journey, Nilu and Satish discussed the final settlement. That gave plenty of time for the rest of the group to taste local bananas. The lady at the counter must’ve gotten frustrated as we ordered one banana after the other. Before parting our ways, questions came on the air pressure of the KTM’s Metzelers which Gyan tested by kicking, much to Nilu’s annoyance. With the amount settled and final group photographs taken, the two chapters of our Motorcycle Club parted with a loud chant of “JAI BoP”.

Again we were unsure of what to expect from the road ahead. Again we were pleasantly surprised. For starters, the entire town of Madurai was bypassed. That saved us at least 20 kms. The 130 kms to Rameswaram had excellent road condition and less traffic. 

To add to our delight it also curved at places. But before we could exploit the asphalt, we needed food. We wished to share the name of the dhaba, but it was written only in Tamil. We even asked the waiter for translation but do not remember the name now.

What greatly impacted us was the hospitality of the waiter. Mutton, fish and chicken came on the table. Since this was Tamil Nadu, Chettinad chicken simply had to be ordered. All the meat dishes tasted fantastic. Serving on banana leaves also enhanced the taste. Throughout this ride we were having trouble when ordering spoons much to Gyan and Nilu’s fun. Eating with hands increases your relationship with food. Our ancestors had it right. Modernization has increased the distance from Nature.

The coffee was also excellent. We sure would like to visit the place on our return too. Right now, we were in Riding mode. Nilu had been pressing all of us since morning to push harder for Rameswaram. After this dhaba, we had pushed enough and relaxed and slowed to our usual comfortable pace. After cruising comfortably for a while, we increased the throttles again. Ashok and Zaheer were unstoppable again.

It was growing dark as we neared Pamban bridge. Here came the most astounding sight of the Ride. The sea began to close in from the right. It was a West Coast Ride, but ironically we were having the sea for company on the East Coast. It was also turning more beautiful than the West Coast. After a few kms, the sea began to near from the left also. We were nearing the point of convergence. Then as we touched the bridge, the two water bodies also touched. This bridge is the only road access of Rameswaram with the mainland. The surprising bit was the railway track at a very low height from the sea. During high tide, it was sure to be submerged. Atop the bridge, we simply had to stop to admire the view. Zaheer and Ashok must have crossed here in the daylight. That would’ve been a prettier sight. 

We soaked in the atmosphere. This was exactly the kind of landscape we had travelled 3000+ kms expecting to discover. We still had more extremes to cover.

Crossing over to the other side of the bridge, we started to look for a place to stay. Rameswaram has a variety of hotels suiting various pockets. After horror experiences in our previous two hotels, we decided to splurge a little and chose a slightly premium one with AC rooms, Hotel Ramajeyam. It had ample parking space too.

We had just freshened up when it started to rain heavily. This was the rainy season for this land. After it had subsided, we stepped out to pick up supplies. The theka was right next door through a dark, dingy, filthy alley. It was only the thirst that took me cross the path. Gyan and Ashok opted out of it. Four bottles of 10000 Volts were picked up. For snacks, we took some minced egg-parathas. The beer was horrible in taste. For dinner, we didn’t feel like going far and chose to have it at the hotel only. 

WCR 1118

18^th Nov 2014: Rameswaram:

Until today, our itinerary had surprisingly gone as per plan. We had also managed to cover all the places we had targeted. Today, our luck would run out. It was only a matter of time. We left very early to catch sunrise at Dhanushkodi. Lots of flying insects welcomed us on the superb road. We were travelling on such a narrow strip of land that we were practically riding over the sea.  An aerial view would have been astounding.

We went as far as the road allowed. From that point on began the sandy stretch. Only 4X4 Jeeps and altered vans could move forward from there. We decided to try our luck with the motorcycles. Gyan made some distance forward. When Zaheer tried, it got stuck soon. It took great effort to turn the Bullet around and get it back to road. Had the stretch to the deserted town been 2 or 3 kms, we would have attempted to cover it. Slithering, sliding, pushing and heaving we would have made it somehow. But the distance was 8 kms. We are not built for that quantity of manual labour.

On enquiring one of the van drivers charged Rs 2000. This was too much for six of us, even if we shared it with the handful of other visitors. A guide at our hotel had suggested taking a Jeep from the hotel for Rs 1500. We didn’t like the fact that the waiting period allowed was only 20 mins. If we had to pay that much amount we would like to stay there longer, no matter there was some activity to do or not. One of the other visitors had come from Bangalore and he informed us that from the check post 2 kms back, one could hitch a ride on the vans for Rs 20. This raised our suspicion further and we didn’t take the bait.

Thinking that the rates would drop once more tourists arrive, we made way for an off road noticed a few kms back leading to another temple. This road has the sea right next to it without any shrubs or sand. Wanderlust was truly captured on this stretch. 

The sea from the end point of this stretch was very shallow. The water was less than knee-deep. It is said that this is a part of the Ram Setu bridge and one can walk over to Sri Lanka from here. An armada of hundreds of ships could be seen in the distance travelling at speed. These are all fishing boats. We were being offered one spectacular sight after another. By now, we guessed that more tourists would have arrived. So we made our way back.

A few mins later, buses filled with tourists began to arrive. This was a religious group on their way to Ram Setu. We were hopeful of catching seats for the six of us now. But the crowd was too much. The reason we later learnt was that this group was 1000-odd strong. All the vans were booked. In fact, the organizer told us that they were falling short of vans.

Our chances of hitching a ride looked bleak. Then it started to rain heavily. Our itinerary was to reach Munnar by end of the day. It was 9 am now and we were stuck. In retrospect, the amount charged by the first van looked reasonable. We could have avoided this large crowd too. We asked at the hotel for a Jeep and they said that Jeeps were not allowed to pick passengers from this point due to presence of Union. We could take the Jeep from the hotel only.

Without an option, we decided to head back to our hotel and take the Jeep from there. Our plan was greatly disrupted. But our troubles were still not over. On the way back it started to rain. We bore it all the way and were almost there when it turned furious. All of us got soaked to the core. Now the change of clothes would take even more time. What worsened the condition was that these were the last days of the Ride and we didn’t have clean clothes left.

Meanwhile our guide was frantically trying to reach the driver of the Jeep but there was no network in the Dhanushkodi area. Nilu, Gyan and Ashok went ahead to arrange a Jeep from another party while we waited here. An hour of waiting later, they had the transport arranged. We now had to hire two Jeeps for Rs 2500. One of them arrived soon and three guys made their way forward. We had already confirmed from the organizer that the Jeeps would take us to the tip of Dhanushkodi.

The second Jeep took longer to arrive. It was still raining. Switching into 4X4 the Jeeps took the sandy path with ease. I was badly missing my Thar here even though private 4X4s are not allowed to commute here. We reached the destructed town of Dhanushkodi. It’s amazing to see this narrow stretch of land still standing after so many years and even harder to believe that once there was a railway station here. The devastated buildings of the church, medical college, railway station and post office still stood. The soaring crows added to the ghost-town feeling. This must be some sight after dark.

Our drivers doubled up as guides and also showed us the Navy tower, the last standing structure 3 kms ahead. The Ram Setu point was 5 kms further away from there. Now the drivers refused to take us there citing permit issues. By this time the large group of the morning had left so we were not too sure about the permit. Even after much persuasion, the drivers did not relent. It seemed unfair to have come so far and not touch the “toe of Mother India”, as I would describe it. So we proceeded on foot. Ashok persuaded me for a jog and we reached the Navy Tower along with Zaheer. 

There was a van undergoing repair here and on asking they told us that the “toe” is 3 kms further. How much narrower could the stretch get? It had already taken us a long time to reach this point. We could have jogged even further but then it started to drizzle.

Reluctantly we turned back. By the time we reached back to the point where the drivers were furiously waiting we were soaked again. First, shortage of clothes and now two wet sets. Things were getting better and better. Although the drivers were angry they controlled it. They still guided us to the temple. Here we observed the phenomenon of the floating stone. It actually floated.

We were exhausted by the time we reached back. There was no way we could travel even halfway to Munnar. It was better to extend our stay here and leave early in the morning. We had a simple lunch at the hotel and began the long process of drying our clothes.

In the evening, Zaheer, Rohit, Gyan and Ashok visited the temple. Rameswaram is one of the “char dhaam”. Pilgrims come from far off to visit the temple here. On returning they recited how they were led to baths to 22 wells. Ashok made the record of bathing 27 times in a single day. 17^th Nov would be so special for him.

The rains had brought the temperature down and that meant we could have rum tonight. We picked up supply from the second theka which was way cleaner than the one next door. Rohit brewed his usual coffee. He was finding it very tough to ask the chef for some hot water. For dinner we went to a place recommended by the man who had arranged the Jeeps for us. It was quite decent. We retired early as next day would be a long haul. Also, we would be re-rentering Kerala so there was no guessing how long the journey would take. We were all dreading the return to Kerala.  

WCR 1119

19^th Nov 2014: Rameswaram to Munnar:

We were ready to leave by 5:15 AM. But as soon as we took off, it started to drizzle. Rain suits were again adorned. We had survived 11 days but the past couple of days had made up for all the rains that we avoided. It was so wet that Nilu was riding in his swimming shorts. The weather took some pity on us 30 kms into the Ride but it was back with even more fury half an hour later. This always happens. Whenever we are soaked during a Ride a dry spell would occur and this would almost dry us up. But as soon as that happens, the skies open up again and we get drenched again. Someone likes to play with us.

But this time we didn’t stop. We continued on in the rain. Actually, it was Rohit who chose to carry on and we followed. Had he stopped, all of the followers would also have stopped. The non-stop riding was beneficial to us and we completed 130 kms quickly to stop at the same dhaba that we had sat at earlier. The waiter was happy to see us return. But then he informed us that the entire chain had gone vegetarian. We were extremely lucky to have tasted their non-veg preparation on the very last day. Future travelers would be deprived of this place’s excellent preparation.

Nilu was as usual proud of his riding gear and began reciting the benefits of riding in shorts. We put on our wet boots again and continued the journey. From this point on, it was sunny. We had managed to avoid entering Madurai on the way to Rameswaram. But to reach Munnar, we had to cross through the center of the city. A series of turns had to be taken. During this course, we came across a shop laden with Rajnikant posters and arts. It was a spectacular sight. All through the turns we were guided by the locals in Hindi. It seems all the infamous notoriety is present in Chennai only.

We made a brief stop on the way to Theni for Nilu to buy a washer and tighten the Bullets’ chains. Zaheer pointed out several faults with the technique used by the mechanic. But the biggest laugh came when his assistant came to oil the chains, by hand.

The road onwards was again excellent. 

We were getting thirsty now and looking for a beer shop. Once came into view which was slightly off the road and we headed for it. The place turned out to be one of the best we had visited on this journey, rather on all journeys. The walls were makeshift made of tin sheets and the benches were made of cement. There was a platter of snacks set up in one corner that included pork, much to our two Assamese’s delight. Actually I should say Chinese delight. Beer was Max 11000, manufactured and sold in Tamil Nadu only. Our waiter was very courteous and always wore a smile.

We were an attraction within the place and were treated as special. The beer tasted well, snacks tasted delicious and our moods were high.  We spent more time at this place than usual. Rohit desired to have his coffee and so he took his brewer near the kitchen to ask for hot water. While the coffee brewed, he was surrounded by curious locals. They must have thought it to be a special alcoholic concoction. 

Continuing on, we reached the mountains. Every rider gets horny on seeing mountain curves. The beer added to this excitement and soon we were leaning. The view turned prettier as we climbed higher. 

We were back in Kerala but not dreading it this time. The weather turned cool and then cold. We stopped for hot maggi at the roadside. This stop also had to be made as Zaheer had got a puncture. The locals told him that the shop is 2 kms ahead. He filled up air using the foot pump and moved on while we finished the Maggi and coffee. Maggi is the official mountain food. It tastes so delicious in those surroundings.

At the puncture shop, the guy mended five punctures. It seemed that Zaheer had drawn the shortest straw and took the pain of everyone else.

We had planned to ride through Munnar and move to Kochi, but the surroundings stopped us. The 25 kms to Munnar were covered very slowly taking ample pics of the tea plantations. A river flowing through these plantations adds so much beauty to this place. We decided to stay for the night and took shelter in Hotel Eden Valley.

The place looked nice but the service was horrible. For starters, hot water was available only in the morning. The manager offered the bathroom in the neighboring guest house which was also owned by him. Our experience became bitter when he resisted giving towels, drinking water, glasses and soap in the rooms. He even refused to setup an extra bed saying that the double bed is wide enough. We’ll surely screw the reviews of that place on trip advisor.

We stepped out after freshening up to explore the local market. Gyan had a long list of spices to be purchased sent by his wife. The guys around him laughed heartily when they saw the length of the list. There’s something for everyone in our Rides. Now we knew why he had kept so much empty space in his luggage. He would be falling short there too. I went to the wine shop where there was a long queue. Every wine shop in Kerala has a long queue. One has to make a split second decision on the options as the crowd behind you gets pushy. I don’t understand why the ban on roadside bars was enforced. It has only increased demand and loss of excise to the government. I can only pray that such bans are kept away from the North. Amen.

For dinner we got biryani packed from Rapsy Restaurant. This place was highly recommended and was mentioned in Highway On My Plate too. 

Taking care of necessities, we returned to our rooms. The rum was ok. Well, nothing can satiate the taste buds of Old Monk loyalists. The food was also mediocre. Our experience was further soured when the caretaker bought two thin spare blankets for the extra persons.

Our Ride through Munnar had been great but the stay was horrible.